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<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:blogger='http://schemas.google.com/blogger/2008' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005" xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781</id><updated>2024-11-01T11:49:19.009+05:30</updated><title type='text'>All About Textiles</title><subtitle type='html'></subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default?max-results=100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>12</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>100</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-8647342883059247633</id><published>2008-01-18T12:47:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T12:49:56.103+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Ginning-Cotton preliminary cleaned</title><content type='html'>The production of cotton is considered complete when it has been picked up from the the plant, but it is not in a useable form. The seeds must be removed and the fibers packed in a bale before selling to the cotton mills. The picked cotton contains about 66% seeds, 33% cotton fibers and small amounts of leaf and dirt. The separation of seeds and fibers is carried out by a process called ginning. This is considered as the first mill processing of cotton as this is the first mechanical process to which raw cotton is put, if it is not picked by machine. The complete ginning process consists of preliminary cleaning and drying of cotton, separation of seeds from fibers, which are sometimes called cotton lint or linters, and pressing and wrapping into a bale of about 500 lbs. </content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/8647342883059247633'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/8647342883059247633'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/ginning-cotton-preliminary-cleaned.html' title='Ginning-Cotton preliminary cleaned'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-9199731203708729288</id><published>2008-01-18T12:42:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T12:45:19.375+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Cotton - cultivation</title><content type='html'>Cotton is grown in more than sixty countries of the world, but United States, India, Russia, Brazil, Egypt and China are some of the largest producers of cotton. Cotton cultivation practices vary from country to country but the general practice is as follows : The land is broken by a plough in winter or early spring to prepare a seed bed for planting. This preparation allows the land to hold the moisture falling on it. The planting season varies depending on the geographical location. In United States it is from March to middle of May, in Egypt, from early March to the end of April, in Russia, India and China from April to August. In tropical countries, the cotton plant assumes a tree like structure. Before the full height is reached (in about 40 days after the plant appears) the plant begins to form flower stalks. Flowering takes another 30 days. The opened flower is yellowish white on the first day when pollination occurs; it turns to pink on the next day when fertilisation takes place and the petals of the flowers fall on the third day. The immature seeds thus formed grow rapidly and the large cotton boll matures in 40-50 days. When the cotton bolls are ripe, they burst, exposing a soft mass of cotton fibres. When the cotton fibers are exposed as a result of the bursting of the ripened boll, the cotton must be picked to prevent the fibers getting discoloured due to exposure to sunlight and air. In former times cotton harvesting was a hand operation, requiring considerable amount of hard labour. Now machine harvesting is also practised. In the picking method the cotton sections of the opened balls are removed from the burs leaving the burs on the stalk. In the pulling method, the open balls and burs are removed together. Sometimes leaves and other foreign matters also find their way in the cotton collected. Hence, pulled cotton is not as clean as picked cotton. </content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/9199731203708729288'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/9199731203708729288'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/cotton-cultivation.html' title='Cotton - cultivation'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-5117482717669486048</id><published>2008-01-18T12:32:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T12:46:23.503+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Cotton - Structure and properties</title><content type='html'>The word cotton is derived from the Arabic. Depending upon the arabian dialect, it is pronounced kutan, qutn, qutun etc. As soon as the cotton fiber is obtained from a plant it is classified as a natural, cellulose, seed, mono-cellular, staple fiber. Macro structure of cotton Under a microscope, a cotton fiber appears as a very fine, regular fiber. It ranges in length from about 10mm to 65 mm, depending upon the quality of the fiber. Cotton is a very fine fiber with little variation in fiber diameter; compared with wool for instance, its fiber diameter is not considered as critical a fiber dimension as its length. The fiber length to breadth ratio of cotton ranges from about 6000:1 for the longest and best types, to about 350:1 for the shortest and coarsest cotton types. The greater this ratio, the more readily can the cotton fibers be spun into yarn. Cotton fibers vary in colour from near white to light tan. Polymer system of cotton The cotton polymer is a linear, cellulose polymer. The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose which consists of two glucose units. The cotton polymer system consists of about 5000 cellobiose units, that is its degree of polymerisation is about 5000. It is a very long, linear polymer, about 5000 nm in length and about 0.8 nm thick. Cotton is a crystalline fiber. Its polymer system is about 65 to 70 per cent crystalline and, correspondingly, about 35-30 per cent amorphous. Therefore, the cotton polymers are, in the main, well oriented and probably no further apart than 0.5 nm, in the crystalline regions. Physical properties of cotton (1) Tenacity - The strength of cotton fibers is attributed to the good alignment of its long polymers (that is its polymer system is about 70 per cent crystalline), the countless, regular, hydrogen bond formations between adjacent polymers, and the spiralling fibrils in the primary and secondary cell walls.It is one of the few fibers which gains strength when wet. It is thought this occurs because of a temporary improvement in polymer alignment in the amorphous regions of the polymer system. The improved alignment when wet results in an increase in the number of hydrogen bonds, with an approximate 5 per cent increase in fiber tenacity. (2) Elastic plastic nature - The cotton fiber is relatively inelastic because of its crystalline polymer system, and for this reason cotton textiles wrinkle and crease readily. Only under considerable strain will cotton polymers give and slide past one another. (3) Hygroscopic nature - The general crispness of dry cotton textile materials may be attributed to the rapidity with which the fibers can absorb moisture from the skin of the fingers. This rapid absorption imparts a sensation of dryness which, in association with the fibers inelasticity or stiffness, creates the sensation of crispness. The hygroscopic nature ordinarily prevents cotton textile materials from developing static electricity.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/5117482717669486048'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/5117482717669486048'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/cotton-structure-and-properties.html' title='Cotton - Structure and properties'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-7403371730599661926</id><published>2008-01-18T07:14:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T07:20:08.679+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Silk - Process</title><content type='html'>History of Silk : Since the 27 th century B.C., the Chinese have produced and used silk fabric. In fact, raising silk worms was one of the many chores of the farm women in China. From China, silk was exported via the Silk Route. The Chinese never let out the secret of how the silk was produced. However, in later years, Christian monks smuggled the eggs out of the country; hence introducing silk manufacture in other nations as well. The Making of Silk Fabric : The process of making silk is delicate and involves a number of steps. • The first stage is called sericulture. This is the cultivation of the silk worms. The most popular species for obtaining mulberry silk is Bombyx mori. The worms are raised in a controlled environment and are fed mulberry leaves. The worms form a cocoon around themselves by secreting a protein from the top of their head. • The farmers collect these cocoons and deliver them to the factory, where they are subject to filature operations. • The first step is to sort the cocoons according to color, size, shape and texture. • Then, the cocoons are made to go through a serious of hot and cold immersions. In this way, the sericin (the gummy substance that holds the fibroin strands in the silk filament together) is softened. • Once this is done, the filament is unwound from the cocoon and combined to produce a thread of raw silk. This is the process of reeling. Usually, three to ten strands are reeled at a time. • Finally the skeins into which the filament was reeled, are packed into bundles called books which are then put into bales to be exported to the mill. • In the mill, the silk fiber is woven into silk fabric, using either a hand loom or a power loom.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/7403371730599661926'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/7403371730599661926'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/silk-process.html' title='Silk - Process'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-6296466848187512381</id><published>2008-01-18T07:07:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T07:10:31.968+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Silk fabrics</title><content type='html'>Indian Silk Fabric : India is the second largest producer of silk after China and the largest consumer of silk in the world. As per the 2001-02 records, India produced 17550 MT of silk. Types of Silk Fabric : There are innumerable varieties of silk moths, but only four main types of commercially valuable natural silk: *Mulberry silk * Tasar silk : This is a copperish colored silk. It is coarse and is used mainly for furnishings. It is produced by the silkworm Antheraea mylitta , which mainly thrives on the plants Asan and Arjun. It is reared on trees in the open. * Muga silk : This is a golden yellow colored silk that is produced in Assam. It is obtained from the semi-domesticated silkworm, Antheraea assamensis which feeds on the aromatic leaves of Som and Soalu plants. * Eri silk : This is got from the domesticated silkworm, Philosamia ricini that feeds mainly on castor leaves. The eri cocoons are open-mouthed. In India, mulberry silk is produced in many states such as Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Jammu &amp; Kashmir and West Bengal. The other types of silk are produced in Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Orissa and the north-eastern states. There are a wide variety of silk textiles made from these four kinds of natural silk. These may be handwoven or woven in power looms. In the mulberry silk variety, some of these silk fabrics are: * Plain silk : This variety of silk textile may be produced on both the hand loom and the powerloom. Available in various shades and patterns, and an entire range of qualities. * Organza : This is a very thin silk cloth that is made of highly twisted yarn. * Crepe : This silk textile is woven from‘s' and ‘z' twisted yarn. The crepe sarees of Mysore are very beautiful. * Satin : An extremely elegant type of mulberry silk fabric. Banarasi satin sarees are very popular. * Matka silk : A thick kind of silk fabric, used for furnishing. By varying the amount of yarn used, the texture and thickness may be modified. It is produced in Bhagalpur in India. * Murshidabad silk : Produced in the Murshidabad district of West Bengal, this type of silk cloth is used to make sarees and scarves. It is available in varying qualities. * Dupion : This type of Indian silk fabric, is a specialty of the handlooms in Bangalore, India. It is available in a number of shades; and used for both garments as well as soft furnishings. * Charka silk : This is a thick variety of silk from India that is used to make zari sarees. It is woven on a handloom. * Chiffon : A very soft and light variety of silk fabric, it is made of highly twisted yarn that is woven on a power loom. It is a very thin, but strong fabric. * Chinnon : This is a very soft and crimped silk textile. It is woven of twisted yarn on a power loom. Tabby silk : This variety is produced in Kashmir and is used to make sarees and scarves.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/6296466848187512381'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/6296466848187512381'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/silk-fabrics.html' title='Silk fabrics'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-8355189291554150958</id><published>2008-01-18T05:19:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T07:07:11.685+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Silk - Properties</title><content type='html'>In old English, silk was sioloc. The name is thought to have originated from the Greek seres, meaning the people from Eastern Asia, namely the Chinese. Silk is natural, protein filament. Its filament density is 1.34 g/cm3, which makes it a medium weight fiber. However, very light weight silk textile materials may be manufactured from silk filaments. Macro-Structure The raw silk strand consists of two silk filaments encased by a protein called sericin. The thickness of the raw silk strand and its uneven and irregular surface are due to the coating of sericin, which gives raw silk a coarse handle.The ability of a silk cocoon to withstand prolonged exposure to weather shows that sericin is very weather resistant. However, is sericin is readily soluble in mild alkaline solution, and when it is removed the two shiny silk filaments composing the raw silk strand are revealed. Silk is very fine, regular, translucent filament. It may be up to 600 m long, but averages about 300 m in length. Depending upon the health, diet and state under which silk larvae extruded the silk filaments, their diameter may vary from 12 um to 30 um. This gives a fiber length to breadth ratio well in excess of 2000:1. The beauty and softness of silk's lustre is due to the triangular cross-section of the silk filament. As the silk filament is usually slightly twisted about itself, the angle of light reflection changes continuously. As a result, the intensity of the reflected light is broken, resulting in a soft, subdued lustre. Micro-Structure The silk-filament is a fine, coagulated stream of fibroin solution, and has no identifiable micro-structure. In this regard it resembles the man-made fibers. Fibroin is the chemical name for the protein which constitutes silk. The Polymer System The Silk Polymer The silk polymer is a linear, fibroin polymer. It differs fron the wool polymers as follows : 1. Silk is composed of sixteen different amino acids compared with the twenty amino acids of the wool polymer. Three of these sixteen amino acids, namely alanine, glycine and serine, make up about four-fifths of the silk polymers composition. 2. The silk polymers are not composed of any amino acids containing sulphur. Hence, the polymer system of silk does not contain any disulphide bonds. 3. The silk polymer occurs only in the beta-configuration. It is thought that silk polymer is about as long as (140 nm), or only slightly longer than the wool polymer, and about 0.9 nm thick. Silk may be considered to have the same composition as that of wool except that the silk polymer system contains no disulphide bonds. Physical properties 1. Tenacity - The silk filament is strong.This strength is due to its linear, beta-configuration polymers and very crystalline polymer system. These two factors permit many more hydrogen bonds to be formed in a much more regular manner. When wet, silk loses strength. This is due to water molecules hydrolysing a significant number of hydrogen bonds and in the process weakning the silk polymer. 2. Elastic-plastic nature - Silk is considered to be more plastic than elastic because its very crystalline polymer system does not permit the amount of polymer movement which could occur in a more amorphous system. Hence, if the silk material is stretched excessively, the silk polymers, which are already in a stretched state (they have a beta-configuration) will slide past each other. The process of stretching ruptures a significant number of hydrogen bonds. When stretching ceases, the polymers do not return to their original position, but remain in their new positions. This disorganises the polymer system of silk, which is seen as a distortion and wrinkling or creasing of the silk textile material. The handle of the silk is described as a medium, and its very crystalline polymer system imparts a certain amount of stiffness to the filaments. This is often misinterpreted, in that the handle is regarded as a soft, because of the smooth, even and regular surface of silk filaments. 3. Hygroscopic nature - Because silk has a very crystalline polymer system, it is less absorbent than wool. The greater crystallinity of silk's polymer system allows fewer water molecules to enter than does the amorphous polymer system of wool. The other hygroscopic properties of silk are rather similar to those of wool. 4. Thermal properties - Silk is more sensitive to heat than wool. This is considered to be partly due to the lack of any covalent cross links in the polymer system of silk, compared with the disulphide bonds which occur in the polymer system of wool. The existing peptide bonds, salt linkages and hydrogen bonds of the silk polymer system tend to break down once the temperature exceeds 100 degree C. Chemical Properties 1. Effect of acids - Silk is degraded more readily by acids than is wool. This is because, unlike the wool polymer system with its disulphide bonds, there are no covalent cross-links between silk polymers. Thus perspiration, which is acidic, will cause immediate breakdown of the polymer system of silk. This is usually noticed as a distinct weakning of the silk textile material. 2. Effect of alkalis - Alkaline solutions cause the silk filament to swell. This is due to partial separation of the silk polymers by the molecules of alkali. Salt linkages, hydrogen bonds and van der Waals' forces hold the polymer system of silk together. Since these inter-polymer forces of attraction are all hydrolysed by the alkali, dissolution of the silk filament occurs readily in the alkaline solution. It is interesting to note that initially this dissolution means only a separation of the silk polymers from each other. However, prolonged exposure would result in peptide bond hydrolysis, resulting in a polymer degradation and complete destruction of the silk polymer. 3. Effect of sunlight and weather - The resistance of silk to the environment is not as good as that of wool. This lower resistance is due mainly to the lack of covalent crosslinks in the polymer system of silk.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/8355189291554150958'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/8355189291554150958'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/silk-properties.html' title='Silk - Properties'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-7881102689497071215</id><published>2008-01-18T04:39:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-18T04:45:06.361+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Types of Weaves</title><content type='html'>Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. Each different fiber content advances towards the hand and drape of the fabric. The most common type of weaves have been described in this section. Plain * Most simple and most common type of construction * Inexpensive to produce, durable * Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes * Method of Construction: * Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns Common Fabrics: Cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile Common Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery Basket * A variation of the plain weave * Usually basket or checkerboard pattern * Contrasting colors are often used * Inexpensive, less durable than plain weave Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings Common Fabrics: Monks cloth, oxford Common Uses: Wall hangings, pillows Twill * Creates a diagonal, chevron, houndstooth, corkscrew, or other design * The design is enhanced with colored yarn * Is strong and may develop a shine Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left. Common Fabrics: Denim, gabardine, serge, tweed Common Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows Satin * Smooth, soft luster * Excellent drapability * Floats snag easily Method of Construction: Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton. Common Uses: Draperies, quilts Jacquard * Yarns woven into unlimited designs, often intricate, multicolor effect * Expensive, but the design doesnot fade or wear out * Durability depends on the fiber used * The Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard Method of Construction: Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating intricate design. Common Fabrics: Brocade, damask, tapestry Common Uses: Upholstery, wall hangings Leno * A mesh-like fabric Method of Construction: A pair of warp threads are passed over and under the filling yarns in a figure 8 or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern Common Uses: Thermal Blankets, curtains Knit * Soft, stretchy Method of Construction: Interlooping yarns - In weft knitting, loops are formed by hand or machine as yarn is added in crosswise direction. - In warp knitting, loops are formed vertically by machine, one row at a time Common Fabrics: Raschel warp knits Common Uses: Not used extensively in design with the exception of raschel warp knits which are used in making curtains and draperies Uncut pile * Loops are possible on both sides of fabric * Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive * Can snag if loops are caught Method of Construction: Generally, a plain or twill weave with a third dimension--additional warp yarn or filling yarn is introduced into the basic structure and forms a loop at regular intervals. Common Fabrics: Frieze, terry cloth Common Uses: Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs Cut Pile * Soft and warm, resilient, absorbent * May have a nap that must be matched * May be expensive and need professional cleaning Method of Construction: Similar to uncut pile, but loops have been cut Common Fabrics: Corduroy, velvet, velveteen Common Uses: Upholstery, stage draperies Non-woven * Does not have a distinct pattern * Generally stiff and somewhat scratchy Common Fabrics: Pelon Common Uses: Bedding, backing for quilts, dust cloths for box springs, carpet backing, and upholstered furniture Felt * Soft, non-woven, can pull apart Method of Construction: Felting occurs when heat, moisture, agitation, and pressure are applied to wool fibers, causing the fibers to interlock permanently. Common Fabrics: Felt Uses: Padding, sound-proofing, insulation, filtering, and polishing, wall hangings and other decorative items Film * Plastic-like material, repels liquid, stiff * Mildews, rots, tears * Inexpensive, fairly durable Method of Construction: Made from synthetic solutions formed into thin sheets Common Fabrics: Vinyl Uses: Tablecloths, shower curtains, draperies, upholstery, and wall coverings Foam * Soft, air holes, absorbent, resilient Method of Construction: Rubber or polyurethane substance with air incorporated causing foaming, quite inexpensive, rots Common Fabrics: Sponges Common Uses: Carpet backing, padding, pillows and cushions, laminates to other fabrics</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/7881102689497071215'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/7881102689497071215'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/types-of-weaves.html' title='Types of Weaves'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-4974737767905809807</id><published>2008-01-16T08:12:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-16T08:23:40.473+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Weaving Basics</title><content type='html'>Weaving is an ancient textile art and craft that involves placing two sets of threads or yarn called the warp and weft of the loom and turning them into cloth. This cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative or artistic designs, including tapestries. The majority of commercial fabrics, in the West, are woven on computer-controlled Jacquard looms. In the past, simpler fabrics were woven on other dobby looms and the Jacquard harness adaptation was reserved for more complex patterns. Some believe the efficiency of the Jacquard loom, and the Jacquard weaving process makes it more economical for mills to use them to weave all of their fabrics, regardless of the complexity of the design. However, an industrialist weaving large runs of simple plain weave fabric may need to be convinced of the logic of investing in Jacquard machines, when a much lower cost loom would suffice. Handweaving, along with hand spinning, is a popular craft. Weavers use wooden looms to create rugs, fabrics, and tapestries. Fabric in which the warp and/or weft is tie-dyed before weaving is called ikat. Fabric decorated using a wax resist method is called batik. Satin weaves, twill weaves, and plain weaves are the 3 basic types of weaving by which the majority of woven products are formed. The most common uses of fabric are for clothing and containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags,backpack, tents, nets, cleaning devices, such as handkerchiefs; transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes; strengthening in composite materials such as fibre glass and industrial geotextiles, and smaller cloths are used in washing by "soaping up" the cloth and washing with it rather than using just soap. Fabrics are used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation) for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests. In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/4974737767905809807'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/4974737767905809807'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/weaving-basics.html' title='Weaving Basics'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-3334260504134543436</id><published>2008-01-16T07:45:00.001+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-16T08:11:55.366+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Various fabric formation methods</title><content type='html'>The process of weaving consists in interlacing, at right angles, two or more series of flexible materials, of which the longitudinal are called warp and the transverse weft. Weaving, therefore, only embraces one section of the textile industry, for felted, plaited, netted, hosiery and lace fabrics lie outside this definition. Felting consists in bringing masses of loose fibres, such as wool and hair, under the combined influences of heat, moisture and friction, when they become firmly inter - locked in every direction. Plaited fabrics have only one series of threads interlaced, and those at other than right angles. In nets all threads are held in their appointed places by knots, which are tied wherever one thread intersects another. Hosiery fabrics, whether made from one or many threads, are held together by intersecting a series of loops; while lace fabrics are formed by passing one set of threads between and round small groups of a second set of threads, instead of moving them from side to side. Notwithstanding the foregoing limitations, woven fabrics are varied in texture and have an enormous range of application. The demands made by prehistoric man for fabrics designed for clothing and shelter were few and simple, and these were fashioned by interlacing strips of fibrous material and grasses, which in their natural condition were long enough for the purpose in hand. But, as he passed from a state of savagery into a civilized being, his needs developed with his culture, and those needs are still extending. It no longer suffices to minister to individual necessities; luxury, commerce and numerous industries must also be considered.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/3334260504134543436'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/3334260504134543436'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/various-fabric-formation-methods.html' title='Various fabric formation methods'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-4081445617758136200</id><published>2008-01-06T18:55:00.001+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-13T09:42:16.598+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Linen History</title><content type='html'><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOaaYZdq8TTg_699U9OHUVmnPH0wGsjjf9ZZbeOraByfbenAmxxfC_TY0kVzF6XXVvJ10WrBV5lSOLwlykFZXNy0jqpZeKwmkSUrrdcFUCUuADdUmR_CGgMqWAuQXtQeSt62LI51KojJ0/s1600-h/146.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 672px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOaaYZdq8TTg_699U9OHUVmnPH0wGsjjf9ZZbeOraByfbenAmxxfC_TY0kVzF6XXVvJ10WrBV5lSOLwlykFZXNy0jqpZeKwmkSUrrdcFUCUuADdUmR_CGgMqWAuQXtQeSt62LI51KojJ0/s320/146.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152355422733042914" border="0" /></a>Linen's history Linen has been used for table coverings, bed coverings and clothing for centuries. The exclusivity of linen stems from the fact that it is difficult and time consuming to produce (flax in itself requires a great deal of attention in its growth). Flax is difficult to weave because of its lack of elasticity, and therefore is more expensive to manufacture than cotton. The benefits of linen however, are unmatched. Due to the parallel arrangement of its fibers, linen is a stronger, sturdier fabric than cotton. In addition, linen is highly absorbent (perfect for dish towels and napkins). Due to its insulating qualities, linen coverings (such as smocks) provide cooling benefits, ideal for warm kitchens. The subtle combination of firmness and softness of linen make this fabric a favorite. Linen can be machine-washed (and grows softer with time and use) and then ironed while still damp with a hot iron. Linen products tend to outlast cotton, enduring up to 20 years of use. The Living Linen Project was set up in 1995 as an Oral Archive of the knowledge of the Irish Linen industry still available within a nucleus of people who were formerly working in the industry in Ulster . The use of linen for priestly vestments was not confined to the Israelites, but from Plutarch, who lived and wrote one hundred years after the birth of Christ, we know that also the priests of Isis wore linen because of its purity.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIDYVGFXdlGPW44qI8zTZb6AzFvmkak0oHVlkb7lP1qs19l9siu8bfioUkvXO1gHO5vRr1RZ8YQ0fvyzqj1IB1Qk-6RD2b2FIhgnulLHGz18zy9YpElSbjXQyYUHfPYJeE75GY5gf_oXH/s1600-h/Irish+Linen+-+3.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 659px; height: 368px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOIDYVGFXdlGPW44qI8zTZb6AzFvmkak0oHVlkb7lP1qs19l9siu8bfioUkvXO1gHO5vRr1RZ8YQ0fvyzqj1IB1Qk-6RD2b2FIhgnulLHGz18zy9YpElSbjXQyYUHfPYJeE75GY5gf_oXH/s320/Irish+Linen+-+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152369243937801458" border="0" /></a>The Antiquity of Linen When the tomb of the Pharaoh Ramesses II, who died 1213 BC, was discovered in 1881, the linen wrappings were in a state of perfect preservation - after more than 3000 years. In the Belfast Library there is preserved the mummy of "Kaboolie,' the daughter of a priest of Ammon, who died 2,500 years ago. The linen on this mummy is in a like state of perfection. When the tomb of Tutankamen was opened, the linen curtains were found intact. Earliest Linen Industry In olden days, in almost every country, each family grew flax and wove the linen for its own use; but the earliest records of an established linen industry are 4,000 years old, and come to us from Egypt. The earliest written documentation of a linen industry comes from the Linear B tablets of Pylos,Greece, where linen is depicted as an ideogram and also written as "ri-no" (Greek: λίνον, linon), and the female linen workers are catalogued as "ri-ne-ja" (λίνεια, lineia) The Phoenicians, who, with their merchant fleet, opened up new channels of commerce to the peoples of the Mediterranean, besides developing the tin mines of Cornwall, introduced flax growing and the making of linen into Ireland before the birth of Christ, but the internal dissensions, which even in those early days were prevalent in Erin, militated against the establishment of an organized industry, and it is not until the twelfth century that we can find records of a definite attempt to systematize flax production. When the Edict of Nantes was revoked, in A.D. 1695, many of the Huguenots who had to flee the country settled in the British Isles, and amongst them was Louis Crommelin, who was born, and brought up as a weaver of fine linen, in the town of Cambrai. He fled to Ulster, and eventually settled down in the small town of Lisburn, about ten miles from Belfast. During the late war Cambrai became well known as one of the centers of the most desperate fighting. The name "cambric" is derived from this town. Although the linen industry was already established in Ulster, Louis Crommelin found scope for improvement in weaving, and his efforts were so successful that he was appointed by the Government to develop the industry over a much wider range .than the small confines of Lisburn and its surroundings. The direct result of his good work was the establishment, under statute, of the Board of Trustees of the Linen Manufacturers of Ireland in the year 1711.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/4081445617758136200'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/4081445617758136200'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2008/01/linens-history-linen-has-been-used-for.html' title='Linen History'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOaaYZdq8TTg_699U9OHUVmnPH0wGsjjf9ZZbeOraByfbenAmxxfC_TY0kVzF6XXVvJ10WrBV5lSOLwlykFZXNy0jqpZeKwmkSUrrdcFUCUuADdUmR_CGgMqWAuQXtQeSt62LI51KojJ0/s72-c/146.jpg" height="72" width="72"/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-7943068677403645992</id><published>2007-12-23T23:11:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2007-12-23T23:13:43.054+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Spinning -Basics</title><content type='html'><div style="text-align: center;">Introduction to Spinning </div> <ul><li>The fibre contained in cotton bales, for example, is first opened and cleaned. The trash is removed and a lap or sheet of fibre is produced.</li></ul> <ul><li>Selection of layers of cotton from different bales allows fibre blending to take place at this early stage. Material losses can be 5% or more. Carding converts the lap to a parallel sliver, removing more of the trash and some lint.</li></ul> <ul><li> In some modern systems, tufts are fed through tubes directly to the card. The carding action takes place between the surfaces of a large cylinder and a system of overhead revolving flats, which are covered with fine wire points. This process produces about another 4% to % in waste. The fibres collected at the end of the card in the form of a filmy web, are condensed into a card sliver of about 25mm diameter.</li></ul> <ul><li>The sliver is then delivered into a tall can. Combing, the next process (although optional, depending on the end use of the yarn), removes short fibres and any remaining trash or nep. A lap forming machine is used to combine a number of slivers into a wide ribbon of fibre which is then presented to the comber. The total material loss up to this stage can be as much as 15%, depending on the grade of cotton.</li></ul> <ul><li> In drawing, the card sliver is drafted down to an intermediate roving. It is at this stage that man-made fibres are blended into the final roving. At the speed frame a single draw frame sliver is drafted 5 to 10 times and a slight twist added. This is wound onto a roving bobbin. The roving is then spun into yarn. Total losses from fibre to yarn can be large. For example 100 kgs of 50/50 polyester cotton yarn can require 56 kgs of polyester and up to 70 kgs of cotton.</li></ul> <ul><li>In ring spinning a fine sliver of fibres is fed downwards from a roving bobbin through a drafting zone, which drafts out the strand of fibres to the correct thickness. The yarn is then wound onto a second package called a ring bobbin. Twist is then inserted by the combined action of the spindle and the traveller. The ringframe, in one form of another, is used for spinning all types of staple fibre, wool, cotton and synthetics.</li></ul></content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/7943068677403645992'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/7943068677403645992'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2007/12/spinning-basics.html' title='Spinning -Basics'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6356645324135809781.post-287406833373761926</id><published>2007-12-19T14:23:00.000+05:30</published><updated>2008-01-16T08:25:26.536+05:30</updated><title type='text'>Welcome</title><content type='html'>Here you may post your experiences,technical points,your technical problems etc. Its a sad fact that websites,blogs,orkuts,geocities,related to our subject is minimum when compared to other technologies.Come join let us share,discuss and improve our skill and career. All your suggestion will be responded. cvrajan</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/287406833373761926'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6356645324135809781/posts/default/287406833373761926'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://allabouttextiles.blogspot.com/2007/12/dear-colleaguesfriendstechies.html' title='Welcome'/><author><name>cvrajan</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03054562677171449632</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='31' height='21' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcq_0ySbhoy219e9z5KqaqMCJu69ZJO6BED-Oaf3PPtUCkvO8eLIb_YQ9MD83Pu4TiR2F8eNo76I2f1N7bz4QhRhww2nfpljcaULNiO8J5Wwp_8q9q5lAxAnQ70Xsig/s220/34.jpg'/></author></entry></feed>

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