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<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:openSearch="http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/" xmlns:blogger="http://schemas.google.com/blogger/2008" xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:gd="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005" xmlns:thr="http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0" version="2.0"><channel><atom:id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929</atom:id><lastBuildDate>Wed, 15 Nov 2023 18:47:54 +0000</lastBuildDate><title>Time Machine, How We Do It..</title><description></description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/</link><managingEditor>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</managingEditor><generator>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>20</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-50773435147208171</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:14:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:14:12.494-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 20: Tactics</title><description>Under Construction<br />
<br /></description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-20-tactics.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-2313485638353609116</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:13:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:13:50.129-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 19: Reading the Wind</title><description>Under Construction<br />
<br /></description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-19-reading-wind.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-6893923714326053194</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:13:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:13:16.292-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 18: Leeward-mark Maneuvers</title><description>Under Construction<br />
<br /></description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-18-leeward-mark-maneuvers.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-386193581651609214</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:12:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:12:43.286-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 17: Jibe-Mark Maneuvers</title><description>Under Construction<br />
<br /></description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-17-jibe-mark-maneuvers.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-4342275814497247555</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:11:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:11:56.521-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 16: Windward Mark Roundings</title><description>Under Construction</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-16-windward-mark-roundings.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-467622397506452702</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:10:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:10:56.598-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 15: Starting Line Maneuvers</title><description>Under Construction<br />
<br /></description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-15-starting-line-maneuvers.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-8103226960158351325</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:10:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:10:15.688-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 14: Advanced Sail-trim on all courses</title><description><strong><u><span style="color: blue;">Headsail Trim:</span></u></strong><br />
<span style="color: blue;">1.&nbsp; Lead position.</span>&nbsp; This means setting the lead
angle and fore-aft position of the sheet lead.&nbsp; The fore-aft lead is positioned by
drawing an imaginary line from midluff through the clew to the deck.&nbsp; Midluff is the
point at the luff&nbsp; directly ahead of the second set of telltales.&nbsp; Fine-tune the
lead position by slowly rounding into the wind and watching the telltales.&nbsp; All the
weather telltales should flip up at once, indicating that the top and bottom of the sail
are trimmed equally.&nbsp; If the top luffs first, move the lead forward; if the bottom
luffs first, move the lead back.&nbsp; It is best to err on the side of too far back.
&nbsp; This increases twist and gives the sail a larger "sweet spot".<br />
<span style="color: blue;">2.&nbsp; Trim.</span>&nbsp; Trim the sail close to, but not
touching, the spreaders.&nbsp; The optimum trim may put the leech slightly in or out from
this setting, with some variation according to&nbsp; sea and wind conditions.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">3.&nbsp; Halyard Tension.</span> Use halyard tension to pull the
draft forward, but do not tension the halyard so much that you get a vertical wrinkle
behind the headstay.&nbsp; Never overtension the halyard, watch the halyard marks.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">4.&nbsp; Adjustments.</span>&nbsp; In flat water and medium air,
trim harder and move the lead angle in-board to flatten the sail and narrow the angle of
attack.&nbsp; Tighten the backstay to reduce headstay sag and flatten the entry.&nbsp; In
waves, ease the sheet, move the lead outboard, and sail lower angles to maintain speed.
&nbsp; Ease the halyard slightly and ease the backstay if the rig doesn't move around too
much.&nbsp; For heavy air, move the lead outboard, but keep the sheet and halyard in hard
to keep the sail flat.&nbsp; Move the lead aft to free the upper leech and flatten the
head--tolerate a slightly earlier luff in the top of the sail if necessary.&nbsp; For very
light winds, move the lead outboard, ease the sheet and move the lead forward enough to
maintain an even break along the luff.&nbsp; Use light backstay and halyard tension, and
sail with the leeward telltale on the verge of stalling.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">5.&nbsp; Effect on the mainsail.</span>&nbsp; If the main is
fluttering or backwinding excessively and all other setting are correct, move the headsail
lead outboard or change to a flatter or smaller headsail.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">6.&nbsp; Using the correct sail.</span>&nbsp; The following table
provides a guide for selecting the correct sail.<br />
<br />
<div align="center">
<center>
<table border="3" style="border: 3px solid rgb(0,0,255); height: 215px; width: 80%px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" colspan="3" width="150%"><div align="center">
Genoa Wind Ranges
(for reference only, check with your sailmaker!)</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">Sail</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">Apparent wind range</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">Maximum Apparent Wind</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">#1 Light</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">0-12</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">12</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">#1 Medium</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">6-20</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">#1 Heavy</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">15-23</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">23</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">#2</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">21-27</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">27</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">#3</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">24-34</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">34</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">#4</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">31-45</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="50%">45</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
</div>
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">7.&nbsp; Record the settings.</span>&nbsp; When the boat is sailing
fast, record the settings on a Genoa Trim Card.<br />
<br />
<div align="center">
<center>
<table border="3" style="border: 3px solid rgb(0,0,255); width: 80%px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" colspan="4" width="105%"><div align="center">
GENOA TRIM CARD</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Genoa:</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">LOW END</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">MIDRANGE</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">HIGH END</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Wind Range (Kts apparent)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" colspan="4" width="105%">Maximum Wind Speed (from sailmaker)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Lead Angle (degrees)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Lead Position (tape number)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Distance to Upper Spreader</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Distance to Chainplates</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Depth (% at midstripe)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Draft Position (% at mid)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Backstay Tension (Lbs.)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Halyard Tension (" from mark)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
</div>
<br />
<span style="color: blue;"><u><strong>Mainsail Upwind Trim:</strong></u></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">1.&nbsp; Sheet tension and Traveler Position.</span>&nbsp; Tighten
the sheet and set the traveler car position so that the boom is roughly on the centerline
of the boat.&nbsp; If the boat is getting overpowered (excessive weather helm) let the
boom fall to leeward until back under control.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">2.&nbsp; Trimming the upper batten.</span>&nbsp; Trim the mainsheet
until the top batten is parallel to the boom.&nbsp; Assuming that the main has the correct
vertical curvature, draft distribution and sectional shape, this will bring the elements
of twist, camber, angle of attack and power to the correct settings.&nbsp; To determine
the angle between the top batten and boom, crouch under the boom and sight upward, lining
up the reference points.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">3.&nbsp; Main telltales.</span>&nbsp; When trimmed correctly, the
telltale on the top batten should be streaming aft most of the time and stalling (curling
behind the main) once in a while.&nbsp; In ideal conditions--flat water and medium air--
trim the mainsheet harder so that the top telltale is stalled most of the time and the top
batten hooks slightly to windward.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">4.&nbsp; Leech tension.</span>&nbsp; This is used to control helm
and pointing.&nbsp; The tighter the leech the more helm and the higher the boat will
point.&nbsp; Remember, however, that you must have speed before shifting into the pointing
mode.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">5.&nbsp; Traveler position.</span>&nbsp; Use the traveler as the
accelerator.&nbsp; When you need more speed, drop the traveler to leeward and foot off a
few degrees.&nbsp; Trade speed for pointing by pulling the traveler to windward and
pointing higher.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">6.&nbsp; Position of maximum draft.</span>&nbsp; The maximum draft
should be positioned roughly 48-50% oft from the luff.&nbsp; Move draft forward when power
is needed for acceleration or punching through waves.&nbsp; Use the cunningham rope to
control the draft position. &nbsp; Pull it just tight enough to remove most of the
wrinkles along the luff.&nbsp; New sails may be fastest with a few wrinkles showing.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">7.&nbsp; Flatten in heavy air and smooth water.</span>&nbsp; Flatten
the main by increasing the amount of mast bend.&nbsp; This is done by increasing backstay
tension, which also reduces headstay sag and is desirable.&nbsp; Watch for "overbend
wrinkles" that extend from the lower-middle part of the mast&nbsp; to the clew.&nbsp;
This indicates that the sail has reached maximum flatness and additional adjustment is
overstressing the rig.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">8.&nbsp; Fuller main for light air or waves.</span>&nbsp; Increase
the fullness of the main for light air or waves by reducing the backstay tension.&nbsp; Be
careful not to allow too much headstay sag.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">9.&nbsp; Target depth and draft positions.</span><br />
<div align="center">
<center>
<table border="3" style="border: 3px solid rgb(0,0,255); height: 186px; width: 80%px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" colspan="7" width="100%"><div align="center">
Mainsail: Target
Depths and Draft Positions</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">Apparent Wind (Knots)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">Lower Stripe Depth (%)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">Lower Stripe Position (%)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">Middle Stripe Depth (%)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">Middle Stripe Position (%)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="15%">Upper Stripe Depth (%)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="15%">Upper Stripe Position (%)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">3-6</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">14-15</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">45</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">15-16</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="14%">45</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="15%">16-17</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="15%">45</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">5-12</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">12</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">14-15</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">15-16</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">10-18</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">10</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">12-13</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">13-14</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">16-26</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">8-9</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">11</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">11</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">24-30</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">9</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">10</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="14%">50</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">10</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" height="27" width="15%">50</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
</div>
<br />
These are general targets only and need to vary depending on the sail and boat.<br />
<u><strong><span style="color: blue;">Mainsail Downwind trim:</span></strong></u><br />
<span style="color: blue;">1.&nbsp; Trim for "backwind".</span>&nbsp; Ease the sheet
until you just start to see backwind or luffing along the luff edge of the sail.&nbsp;
Play the main sheet to keep the sail on the edge of luffing.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">2.&nbsp; Outhaul and Cunningham.</span>&nbsp; Ease the outhaul and
cunningham to make the sail fuller.&nbsp; The halyard may also need to be eased if
vertical wrinkles along the luff are seen.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">3.&nbsp; Trimming the upper batten.</span> Adjust the mainsheet and
vang so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom.&nbsp; On reaches set the leech so
the upper-batten telltale streams aft most of the time.&nbsp; This minimizes backwind from
the lower leech of the genoa or spinnaker.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">4.&nbsp; Vang.</span>&nbsp; Be careful not to overdo the vang in
light and medium air.&nbsp; In these conditions the weight of the boom is enough to
provide the leech tension.&nbsp; On heavy-air runs, use lots of vang.&nbsp; This reduces
the upper leech twist which makes the boat want to roll.&nbsp; To damped rolling, sheet
in.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">5.&nbsp; Over powered reach.</span>&nbsp; Leave the outhaul tight.
&nbsp; Ease the vang enough to keep the end of boom out of the water when rolling. &nbsp;
Dump the sheet when the heel becomes too great.&nbsp; If the boom end drags in the water a
lot, reef the main.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">6.&nbsp; Light air. </span>&nbsp; Have a crew member hold the boom
out, especially if heeling to windward.&nbsp; Make sure&nbsp; the pressure is out and not
down.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">7.&nbsp; Trimming order.</span>&nbsp; The headsail, genoa or
spinnaker is trimmed first.&nbsp; The headsail trimmer must tell the main-trimmer when
making a change.<br />
<br />
<div align="center">
<center>
<table border="3" style="border: 3px solid rgb(0,0,255); width: 80%px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" colspan="4" width="105%"><div align="center">
MAIN TRIM CARD</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Mainsail:</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">Light Air</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">Medium</td>
<td align="center" bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">Heavy Air</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Wind Range (Kts apparent)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Top Batten (angle to boom)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Outhaul (inches to band)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Cunningham (none, little, hard)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Depth (% at midstripe)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Draft Position (% at mid)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Backstay Tension (Lbs.)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Boom Position</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Battens</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="42%">Rudder Angle (degrees)</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="19%">&nbsp;</td>
<td bordercolor="#0000FF" width="20%">&nbsp;</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
</div>
<br />
<u><strong><span style="color: blue;">Shifting Gears:</span></strong></u><br />
When working to windward, and especially at the start, the sails can be trimmed to
maximize; 1) Acceleration, 2) Speed, 3) Pointing and 4) Low Leeway.&nbsp; The following
are general guidelines for trimming to each 'gear'.&nbsp; The trim parameters that are
adjusted on the main are;&nbsp; Sheeting angle (boom position), Mast bend (backstay
tension &amp; checkstay tension), Draft (outhaul), Draft position (cunningham), and Twist
(mainsheet).&nbsp; The trim parameters that are adjusted on the foresail are; &nbsp;
Lateral Lead (barberhauler), Lead position (lead car), Sheet tension, and Luff tension
(halyard).<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Acceleration Gear:</span>&nbsp; The objective is increase power,
reduce aspect ratio and minimize leeway.&nbsp; Maximum acceleration is required when going
from well below the target speed, such as when luffing at the starting line, to the target
speed.&nbsp; <u><strong>Mainsail</strong></u>:&nbsp; The boom position is set wide
(~6" off the centerline).&nbsp; The backstay tension is reduced and checkstay is
tightened, which straightens the mast, increasing the depth of the draft.&nbsp; The draft
is made full by easing the outhaul.&nbsp; The draft position is moved as far forward as
possible by tensioning the cunningham.&nbsp; The leech of the main is allowed to twist
markedly, by easing the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler.
&nbsp; <u><strong>Foresail</strong></u>:&nbsp; The lateral lead is positioned in-board.
&nbsp; The leadcar is set forward of its normal position.&nbsp; The sheet tension is
minimal.&nbsp; The luff tension is minimal.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Speed Gear:</span>&nbsp; The objective is to maximize speed while
continuing to steer reasonably close to the wind.&nbsp; This gear is used to punch through
waves or to work out from a leeward position or to power across the bow of a starboard
crossing boat.&nbsp; <u><strong>Mainsail</strong></u>:&nbsp; The boom position is set
close (~2" off the centerline).&nbsp; The backstay tension is moderate and checkstay
tension is moderate, which bends the mast, decreasing the depth of the draft.&nbsp; The
draft is made moderately full by trimming&nbsp; the outhaul.&nbsp; The draft position is
moved aft by easing the cunningham.&nbsp; The leech of the main is gradually straightened,
by trimming the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler.&nbsp; <u><strong>Foresail</strong></u>:
&nbsp; The lateral lead is positioned normally.&nbsp; The leadcar is set to its normal
position.&nbsp; The sheet tension is moderate.&nbsp; The luff tension is moderate.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Pointing Gear:</span>&nbsp; This gear is used only when the boat is
already at the target speed.&nbsp; Shifting into pointing gear when not a full speed will
markedly increase leeway and reduce VMG. However, this is a great way to work up on a boat
that you are lee-bowing or controlling at the approach to a windward mark.&nbsp; <strong><u>Mainsail</u></strong>:
&nbsp; The boom position is set to the centerline.&nbsp; The backstay tension is increased
and checkstay tension is minimal, which bends the mast, decreasing the depth of the draft.
&nbsp; The draft is further flattened by trimming&nbsp; the outhaul.&nbsp; The draft
position is moved aft by easing the cunningham.&nbsp; The leech of the main is &nbsp;
straightened as much as possible, by trimming the mainsheet, while controlling the boom
position with the traveler.&nbsp; <u><strong>Foresail</strong></u>:&nbsp; The lateral lead
is positioned in-board.&nbsp; The leadcar is set to a slightly aft position. &nbsp; The
sheet tension is markedly tight.&nbsp; The luff tension is minimal.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Low Leeway Gear:</span>&nbsp; Leeway is of major concern when moving
slowly in light air and very heavy air conditions.&nbsp; Fortunately, the trim for the
Acceleration gear (the loose, open, twisted leech on both the main and foresails) results
in little leeway.&nbsp; Particularly in very light and very heavy air, the flattening of
the sails by increasing mast bend gives superior performance.&nbsp; <u><strong>Mainsail</strong></u>:
&nbsp; The boom position is set wide (~6" off the centerline).&nbsp; The backstay
tension is maximum and checkstay is minimum, which bends the mast, flattening the sail.
&nbsp; The draft is made flat by tightening the outhaul.&nbsp; The draft position is moved
as far forward as possible by tensioning the cunningham.&nbsp; The leech of the main is
allowed to twist moderately, by easing the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position
with the traveler.&nbsp; <u><strong>Foresail</strong></u>:&nbsp; The lateral lead is
positioned out-board.&nbsp; The leadcar is set aft of its normal position.&nbsp; The sheet
tension is moderate.&nbsp; The luff tension is maximum</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-14-advanced-sail-trim-on-all.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-6745951672520121852</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:08:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:08:40.244-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 13: Spinnaker Take-down</title><description><span style="color: blue;"><strong><u>Windward Takedown :</u></strong></span><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Preparations:</span>&nbsp; The Genoa will need to
be moved from the port rail to the starboard rail. Untie the jib sheets
from the clew and tie them together. The Checkstay trimmer them pulls
the knot around to the starboard side. The bowman gathers the genoa and
loosely rolls it toward the bow. The Guy-guy eases the downhaul to make
it easier to get the sail around the front of the downhaul. The genoa is
rolled out along the starboard rail and the jib sheets retied to the
clew. The starboard sheet is loaded on the primary and handle put in the
winch.<br />
Reset the Mainsail for closehauled. Check the true windspeed and
tension the Main-halyard, Cunningham, and Outhaul in that order to their
marks. Ease the Port Genoa Halyard (Fraculator) and tension the
Backstay. The bowman scoots forward and releases the fraculator shackle
and on his way back releases the Genoa Bungee cord (if used). The
forward hatch is opened.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Approaching the mark:</span> The Genoa is
hoisted. It should be trimmed in enough to allow the spinnaker to
continue to fly. The Spinnaker pole is tripped (Mastman #2 pushes the
guy outboard as the chute continues to fre-fly) and stowed with the tip
to starboard. The bowman retrieves the portside lazy sheet.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Douse:</span> Helm calls <span style="color: green;">'Douse Douse Douse'</span>.
The Trimmer gives a huge ease on the sheet. MastMan #1 eases the
halyard. Bowman pulls the tack of the spinnaker around the Headstayand
down towards the hatch. The bowman works to bring the foot of the
spinnaker around the headstay as the Mastman #2 pulls the spinnaker down
into the hatch. As soon as the head reaches the hatch, close the hatch.
Unhook the halyard and stow it at the mast base. Leaving everything
else hookedup. Ease the uphaul (Starboard genoa Halyard) and clip the
uphaul bridle under the jib sheets and into the mastring shackle. Call <span style="color: green;">'Clear to Tack'</span>.<br />
During the upwind leg, reconnect the halyard and re-tape it to the
pulpit. Also, insert the starboard sheet and guy in the pole
end-fitting. <br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><strong><u> Jibe Douse:</u></strong></span><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Preparations:</span>&nbsp; Reset the Mainsail for
closehauled. Check the true windspeed and tension the Main-halyard,
Cunningham, and Outhaul in that order to their marks. Ease the Port
Genoa Halyard (Fraculator) and tension the Backstay. The bowman scoots
forward and releases the fraculator shackle and on his way back releases
the Genoa Bungee cord (if used). The forward hatch is opened.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Approaching the mark:</span> The Genoa is
hoisted. It should be trimmed in enough to allow the spinnaker to
continue to fly. The Spinnaker pole is tripped (Mastman #2 pushes the
guy outboard as the chute continues to fre-fly) and stowed with the tip
to starboard. The bowman retrieves the portside lazy guy.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Douse:</span> Helm calls <span style="color: green;">'Douse Douse Douse'</span>.
The boat starts to jibe as the spinnaker comes down under the genoa.
The genoa is jibed over the heads of the Bowman and Mastman#2. The
Checkstay Trimmer releases the portside jibsheet. The Guy-guy unloads
the guy and loads the starboard jibsheet and trims the genoa in as the
boat heads up. The rest of the douse is the same as the Windward douse.
When the hatch has been closed, there is no need to lower the uphaul
until after the next tack onto starboard.<br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><strong><u>Leeward Douse:</u></strong></span>
Rounding the right side of a gate (mark to starboard) from starboard tack approach<br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Preparations:</span>&nbsp; Reset the Mainsail
for closehauled. Check the true windspeed and tension the Main-halyard,
Cunningham, and Outhaul in that order to their marks. Ease the Port
Genoa Halyard (Fraculator) and tension the Backstay. The bowman scoots
forward and releases the fraculator shackle and on his way back releases
the Genoa Bungee cord (if used). The forward hatch is opened.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Approaching the mark:</span> The Genoa is
hoisted. It should be trimmed in enough to allow the spinnaker to
continue to fly. The bowman retrieves the portside lazy guy.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Douse:</span> Helm calls <span style="color: green;">'Douse Douse Douse'</span>.
The boat starts to round up as the spinnaker comes down under the genoa
on the portside . It is critical that the Guy-guy release the guy so
the tack begins to flag out to port.The Genoa is trimmed hard by the
Guy-guy. The Mastman #1 eases the halyard faster than for a weather
drop, helping to keep the spinnaker from filling.. The spinnaker trimmer
comes back to primary winches and resumes duty as jib trimmer. As soon
as the chute is down the hatch and the halyard stowed at the mast base,
lower the pole and stow it on the starboard side of the boat. Time
permitting, lower the uphaul and stow the bridle under the lazy jub
sheet.<br />
</blockquote>
<br />
Note: In each case, the spinnaker is ready for a port-side hoist, out of the hatch. &nbsp; </description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-13-spinnaker-take-down.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-2562971415024342902</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:07:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:07:55.068-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 12: Jibing with the Spinnaker</title><description><span style="color: blue;"><strong><u>Dip Jibe:</u></strong></span><br />
<br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Preparations:</span>&nbsp; The Checkstay-trimmer
(or if needed the Guy-guy) loads the .&nbsp; &nbsp; Mast-man#1 hoists the
mastring to the jibemark on the mast.&nbsp; The
Spinnaker-trimmer moves to the cockpit at the leeward secondary.&nbsp;
The guy-trimmer
loads the lazy sheet on the windward secondary and takes in all the
slack.&nbsp; The
Bow-man takes the lazy guy forward and sits in the pulpit on the
windward side.
&nbsp; Mast-man#2 unloads all but 1 wrap from the winch and stands ready.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Spinnaker:</span>&nbsp; The skipper calls <span style="color: green;">'Jibe
Ho'</span>.&nbsp; The Bow-man calls <span style="color: green;">'TRIP'</span>.&nbsp; The
Mast-man#1 pulls the trip cord and calls 'pole down'.&nbsp; Simultaneously, the
Checkstay-trimmer takes all the tension on the new sheet and&nbsp; Mast-man#2 eases the
uphaul to the mark and then loads wraps on the winch and puts in a handle.
&nbsp; Mast-man#1 pulls the pole to bow, lifting it over the pulpit if required.&nbsp; The
Bow-man places the new guy in the pole end and calls <span style="color: green;">'made'</span>.
&nbsp; The Bow-man pushes the pole overhead and Mast-man#2 grinds it up.&nbsp; As the pole
is rehoisted, the Guy-trimmer&nbsp; moves to the windward primary and takes the tension
from the old sheet.&nbsp; The Spinnaker trimmer takes the sheet from the checkstay-trimmer
and moves to the windward chainplates.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Mainsail:</span>&nbsp; As the boat approaches dead-down-wind the
mainsheet is eased to the maximum point. When the skipper calls 'Jibe Ho', the sheet is
hauled in as fast as possible.&nbsp; In lighter condition the Main-trimmer can just pull
over the whole sheet bundle.&nbsp; In heavier conditions he can pull on an intermediate
loop or just haul on the bitter end.&nbsp; As soon as the main flops to the other side it
must be eased back to the maximum and then re-trimmed for the new course.</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-12-jibing-with-spinnaker.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-5591558930055461851</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:07:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:07:02.893-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 11: Spinnaker Trim</title><description><blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><u><strong>Crew positions:</strong></u></span>&nbsp; <br />
<blockquote>
Spinnaker-trimmer (was Genoa-trimmer) with the spinnaker-sheet at the highside
chainplates.&nbsp; Checkstay-trimmer at the leeward secondary winch with winch handle in
the winch.&nbsp; Guy-guy (was Genoa-tailer) at the windward primary winch.&nbsp;
Mast-man#1 at the uphaul winch.&nbsp; Bow-man is on the windward side of the boat looking
back to forecast the wind with the lazy-guy in his hand.&nbsp; The rest of the crew is positioned to keep the boat level
and on its lines (keep the transom out of the water).<br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><u><strong>Trimming:</strong></u></span>&nbsp; <br />
<blockquote>
Spinnaker trim is a continuous process that involves three functions.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">1)&nbsp; Set the pole angle.</span>&nbsp; The primary control for
this is the guy.&nbsp; To get a rough setting of the angle trim the guy until the pole is
perpendicular to the apparent wind.&nbsp; To fine tune the setting, look at the war the
spinnaker luff flies as it rises from the end of the pole.&nbsp; If the luff is leaning
off to leeward, ease the pole forward.&nbsp; If it's billowing out to windward, square the
pole back.&nbsp; <br />
<span style="color: blue;">2)&nbsp; Set the pole height.</span>&nbsp; The primary control is
the uphaul.&nbsp; The goal is to position the end of the pole so that the tack and clew
are level.&nbsp; In light air try raising the pole a few inches to encourage the clew the
rise, encouraging lift.&nbsp; When running in a strong breeze, drop the pole a few feet and ease it forward
to prevent rolling.&nbsp; <br />
<span style="color: blue;">3) Sheet for a curl.</span>&nbsp; The controls for adjusting the
curl are the sheet and guy, working together.&nbsp; Ease the sheet until the luff of the
spinnaker starts to curl to windward.&nbsp; This shows that the spinnaker is not
overtrimmed.&nbsp; Overtrimming is always slow!!!!<br />
Spinnaker trim requires cycling through the three functions constantly, especially if the
apparent wind direction is varying.&nbsp; The sheet and guy should never be cleated off!
&nbsp; The downhaul must be adjusted as the pole angle and height are adjusted.<br />
</blockquote>
See "Understanding Trim", Peter Isler, Sailing World, May 1996 and Chapter 8
of "Racing Crew", Malcolm McKeag &amp; Bill Edgerton, Fernhurst Books, 1995. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-11-spinnaker-trim.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-3728126291396424416</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:06:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:06:26.431-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 10: Bear-away Spinnaker Hoist</title><description><blockquote>
The spinnaker sections assume the use of a dip-pole jibe method,
with a double ended down-haul lead from the pole end to the cockpit.
Further more, it is assumed that we are sailing windward-leewards with
marks to port and the genoa is set in the port groove with the port
halyard. Adjustments will be needed if headsail changes are made. <br />
<span style="color: blue;"><u><strong>Preparations:</strong></u></span><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Setting up the pole:</span>&nbsp; The pole is
already on the mast
ring.&nbsp; Set the end of the pole on the starboard side of the boat.&nbsp;
The downhaul is already attached to the end of the pole (make sure it
does not foul on the dockline chocks).&nbsp; Bring the starboard jib halyard
to the mast and close the shackle on the top of the mast-ring car
around the line.
&nbsp; Clip the halyard to the ring of the uphaul bridle, making sure the
lazy jibsheet is over top of the bridle and in front of the halyard.
This clears the foredeck for tacking. Now setup the sheets and guys
which should
already be clipped to the lifeline at the bag location on the port
side. If the sheets
and guys are on the starboard rail, clip them together and run them
around the forestay to the bag location and clip them to the rail.&nbsp;
Clip BOTH the starboard sheet and starboard guy into the pole
end-fitting, making sure to bring the loop inside the pulpit and below
the lower railing. <br />
<span style="color: blue;">Setting up the sailbag:</span>&nbsp; Clip the
spinnaker bag to the
port rail.&nbsp; Attach the sheet and guys.
The sheet shackle goes on the clew-ring and the guy shackle clips to
the ring of the sheet shackle (this allows for dropping the guy in light
conditions). &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bring the starboard spinnaker halyard from the
mast-base and clip it to the head
of the
sail (on starboard tack, just come forward and around the headstay,
on port tack, come back around the leach of the jib and then forward
around the headstay).&nbsp; Using electrical tape, tape the halyard to the
pulpit with one wrap.
&nbsp; Leave enough slack so the jib does not get distorted by the
halyard. <br />
<span style="color: blue;">Crew positions:</span>&nbsp; Bow-man tending to the spinnaker bag,
guy and sheet (stays back at the mast unless needed in the bow).&nbsp; Mast-man#1 tending
to uphaul and spinnaker halyard.&nbsp; Mast-man#2 tending to spinnaker halyard and releasing the jib halyard. &nbsp;
Jib-trimmer at the leeward primary winch.&nbsp; Jib-tailer at the windward primary winch. Checkstay-trimmer in the hotbox<br />
</blockquote>
<strong><span style="color: blue;"><u>Hoist the Pole:</u></span></strong><br />
<blockquote>
When the boat is on starboard tack and on the layline approaching the windward mark, the Skipper
calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'On the Layline'</strong></span>.&nbsp;
The helm continues to call out the distance to the mark in boatlengths,
20 lengths, 10 lengths, 5 lengths, 2 lengths, 1 length, Rounding.
Mast-man#2
opens the shackle on uphaul and reclips it with the jib sheet inside
the halyard, he then opens the shackle on the top of the mast-ring car
freeing the uphaul. Mast-man#1 hoists the uphaul to take out slack. The
bowman calls the pole hoist based on the Mast-man team and how long they
need. The object is to have enough time, but to hoist as late as
possible. If a last minute tack is needed, it is imperative that the
pole be on the deck.<br />
The bowman calls HOIST the POLE then Mast-Man#2 hoists the
mastring to the
mark on the mast as the tip of the pole is rasied (the ideal hoist
has the pole moving parallel to the water).&nbsp; The Jib-trimmer and
Jib-tailer make sure that the guy remains slack.&nbsp;
The downhaul must be set on its marks to allow it to be poled aft.
When the pole reaches a horizontal
position, Mast-man#1 calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'pole hoisted'</strong></span>.&nbsp;
The Genoa-tailor (now known as the Guy-guy) loads the guy on the
windward primary winch and the Checksay-trimmer loads the sheet on the
leeward secondary winch.&nbsp; All slack is pulled out of the sheets and
guys, without
pulling the sail out of the bag.&nbsp;&nbsp; The cockpit crew calls <strong><span style="color: green;">'ready to hoist'</span></strong>.&nbsp; Now we wait until the boat reaches
the windward mark. <br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><u><strong>Hoist the Spinnaker:</strong></u></span><br />
<blockquote>
At the 2 boatlength distance, the Genoa-trimmer hands off the
jibsheet to the Checkstay-trimmer and moves forward to the
starboard-side chainplates with the spinnaker sheet. The Guy-guy hauls
of both the starboard sheet and guy as the bowman feeds the tack to the
jaw on the pole. This is called 'cheating the guy'. The bowman holds the
sail tight against the lee side of the jib.<br />
As the boat clears the mark, the Main Trimmer 'dumps' the
main-sheet and the jib is eased, keeping it in perfect trim. The
Skipper calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'Hoist the Spinnaker'</strong></span>.&nbsp;
Mast-man#2 jumps the halyard, breaking the tape on the pulpit and
rocketing the sail to a full hoist. the Mast-man#2 is pulling the
halyard through the stopper and has 1 wrap on the winch. As the head of
the sail nears the top of the mast, the Guy-guy trims the guy bringing
the pole aft. The Genoa-trimmer keeps very light tension on the
spinnakersheet
and waits to trim the sheet until he sees the mast-men have a full
hoist or need to grind the last few feet of halyard. The trimmer then
trims the chute..<br />
<span style="color: blue;"><u>Douse the Jib:</u></span>&nbsp; As soon as the
cute hoist is underway the Bow-man moves back to the jib
halyard stopper and releases the halyard, immediately lowering the
jib.&nbsp; The Bow-man scoots forward and pulls the sail down the TUFFLUFF
&nbsp; while Mast-man#2 come over from the starboard side of the boat and
help collect the sail on deck and secures it under the bungee
cord.&nbsp; The Bow-man refeeds the lufftape of the genoa through the
pre-feeder, the feeder and into the TUFFLUFF and clips the fraculator
line shackle around the halyard, above the halyard's stopper ball.
&nbsp; The Checkstay-Trimmer eases the backstay all the way and calls
'Backstay Eased". Mast-man #2 grinds the masthead forward. Mast-man #1
eases the Outhaul, re-sets the vang. Mast-man #2 Eases the main-halyard
for down-wind settings..<br />
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-10-bear-away-spinnaker-hoist.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-1194040737493829474</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:05:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:05:22.915-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 9: Reefing and Shanking out a reef on the Mainsail</title><description><blockquote>
<u><strong><span style="color: blue;">Reefing:</span></strong></u><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Crew Positions:</span>&nbsp; Mast-man#1 at the reefingline
stopper (located on the boom at the gooseneck).&nbsp; Checkstay-trimmer is at the secondary winch.&nbsp; Mast-man#2 at the main halyard
stopper and winch.&nbsp; Bow-man is tailing the main halyard.&nbsp;
Main-trimmer at the mainsheet.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Maneuver:</span>&nbsp; The skipper gives the command <span style="color: green;"><strong>'ready to reef the main'</strong></span>.&nbsp; The crew goes to
the assigned positions.&nbsp; Mast-man#1 hands the reefline and passes it back to the
hotbox.&nbsp; The checkstay-trimmer takes wraps on
the winch on the same side as the turning block (may require releasing the checkstay).&nbsp; The Crew-boss calls out <span style="color: green;"><strong>'Ready to
reef the main'</strong></span>. &nbsp; On the skippers command, Mast-man#1 releases the
boomvang and the Main-trimmer eases the main sheet. &nbsp; Mast-man#2 eases the main
halyard while the Mast-man#1 pulls the luff of the main down.&nbsp; Hotbox winches in the
reefing line just enough to keep the boom level and minimize flapping of the leach.&nbsp;
When the sail has been lowered far enough for the tack-cringle to slide over the reefing
hook, the Mast-man#1 does so and calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'tack is on'</strong></span>.&nbsp;
Mast-man#2 winches up the main halyard until the desired luff tension is reached.&nbsp;
Hotbox winches the reefing line until the new clew is at the boom.&nbsp; The Main-trimmer
may need to allow the main to luff to reduce tension on the reefing line at the end.&nbsp;
The Main-trimmer retrims the mainsail, the boomvang is re-applied as needed.&nbsp; The
reefline is re-coiled and stowed at the mast.&nbsp; The crew clears the deck and moves
back to the windward rail.<br />
The foot of the sail can be folded over the boom to reduce windage and improve visibility for the helmsman.<br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;"><u><strong>Un-Reefing:</strong></u></span><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Crew Positions:</span>&nbsp; Mast-man#1 at the reefingline
stopper (gooseneck).&nbsp; Mast-man#2 at the main halyard stopper and winch.&nbsp; Bow-man
at the mast, tending the mainsail tack.&nbsp; Main-trimmer at the mainsheet.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Maneuver:</span>&nbsp; The skipper gives the command <span style="color: green;"><strong>'ready to un-reef the main'</strong></span>.&nbsp; The crew goes
to the assigned positions.&nbsp; Mast-man#1 un-coils the reefline and passes it back to
the hotbox and the Crew-boss calls out<span style="color: green;"><strong> 'Ready to un-reef the
main'</strong></span>. &nbsp; Mast-man #1 eases the reefing line and
Mast-man#2 eases the
main halyard until the Bow-man can slide the reef-ring off the
reefing hook. A quick ease of the mainsheet to luff the mainsail may be
needed.&nbsp; The
Bow-man calls <strong><span style="color: green;">'tack is off'</span></strong>
when the ring is
free.&nbsp; Mast-man#2 winches the main halyard while Mast-man#1 releases
the reefing line
and the Main-trimmer eases the mainsheet as needed to allow a
complete hoist.&nbsp; The bowman guides the luff bolt-rope into the mast
groove. When
the mainsail luff tension is correct, Mast-man#2 calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'main
is hoisted'</strong></span> and the Main-trimmer retrims the mainsail.&nbsp; The crew
clears the deck and moves back to the windward rail.<br />
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-9-reefing-and-shanking-out-reef.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-5636231602524547426</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:04:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:04:15.378-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 8: Genoa Sail Changes</title><description><blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Bare-Headed Change:</span><br />
<blockquote>
Bring the bag for the old jib on deck and secure it to the leeward
rail.&nbsp; Make sure the zipper is run to the aft end of the bag. Bring
the new jib on deck, secure the bag on leeward rail on top of the old
jib bag, attach the
TACK to the stem-plate.&nbsp; Release the jib halyard bringing the old jib
down on the leeward deck, piling it
inboard of the new jib bag.&nbsp; Bowman goes forward to pull the sail
down out of the
TUFFLUFF groove.&nbsp; As soon as he can reach it, the bowman unhooks the
halyard from the
old jib and hooks on the head of the new jib. &nbsp; The lufftape is
started through the
pre-feeder, feeder and into the groove.&nbsp; The sheets are detached
from the clew and bowlined
onto the new jib.&nbsp; As soon as the bowlines are completed, hoist the
new jib. &nbsp;
Trim lead cars and the sail.&nbsp; Stow the bag for the new jib below (run
the zipper aft and fold from fore to aft).&nbsp; Flake the old jib into its
bag, detaching the TACK from the stemplate and stow it below. <br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Inside Hoist/Outside Drop (IH/OD):</span><br />
<blockquote>
Used when on Starboard tack and jib in Port slot OR on Port tack
and jib in
Starboard&nbsp; slot.&nbsp; Bring the new jib on deck and secure the bag to the
leeward
lifelines.&nbsp; Attach the Tack to the stemplate.&nbsp; Attach windward
halyard (stored at mast base) to
the head of the jib. &nbsp; Make sure the bag zipper is 'peeling' and feed
the
jib lufftape through the pre-feeder, feeder and into the unused
groove, pull the slack out of the halyard so the head is 3-4 feet
into the TUFFLUFF. &nbsp; While this happening, untie the lazy sheet and
if required (change from Genoa to jib or vice versa) bring the lazy
sheet over to the windward rail and reeve it through the proper
fairlead.&nbsp;&nbsp; Bowline the lazy sheet to the new jib. Using a changing
sheet, reeve it through the proper fairleads and bowline it onto the
CLEW. Lead the changing sheet around the back of the leeward primary
winch and cross-sheet it to the windward primary winch.<br />
Hoist the new jib.&nbsp; Trim the sail on the windward primary. As soon
as the new jib
is up and drawing, lower the old jib, pulling it under the foot of
the new jib and over
the top of the life lines.&nbsp; A quick ease of the sheet will help the
crew. As the old jib is coming down, unload the leeward primary winch.
As soon as the head comes out of the TUFFLUFF, disconnect
the halyard and clip it onto the leeward pulpit ring.&nbsp; Remove the
sheet from the clew
of the old jib, run it through the proper fairlead(s) and bowline
it to the clew of the new jib.&nbsp; Load the sheet onto the leeward primary
winch and take the load that was on the changing sheet. Disconnect the
changing sheet and stow it below. Stow the bag for the new jib. Bring
the bag for the old jib on deck and flake the sail into it (stay on the
high side if the boat is heeled). Stow the bag with the old jib below.<br />
On the next tack, the bowman will scoot forward to retrieve the
spare halyard, now clipped to the pulpit and stow it at the mast base. <br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Outside Hoist/Inside Drop (OH/ID):</span><br />
<blockquote>
Used when on Starboard tack and jib is in Starboard groove OR on
Port tack and jib is
in Port groove. &nbsp; Bring the new jib on deck and secure the bag to the
leeward
lifelines.&nbsp; Attach the TACK to the stemplate. &nbsp; Attach the leeward
halyard from the mast base, running it back aft of the leach of the old
jib and outside the sail to the head of the jib.&nbsp; Make sure the bag
zipper is 'peeling' and start to feed the
jib lufftape through the pre-feeder, feeder and into the groove, pull
the slack out of the halyard so the head is 3-4 feet
into the TUFFLUFF.<br />
Using a changing sheet, reeve it through the proper fairleads and
bowline it onto the CLEW. Lead the changing sheet around the back of
the leeward primary winch and cross-sheet it to the windward primary
winch. While this happening, untie the lazy sheet and if required
(change from Genoa to jib or vice versa) bring the lazy sheet over to
the windward rail and reeve it through the proper fairlead.&nbsp;&nbsp; Bowline
the lazy sheet to the new jib.<br />
Hoist the new jib.&nbsp; Trim the sail on the windward primary winch.
As soon as the new jib is up, lower
the old jib, watching that it stays on-board and folds if possible.&nbsp;
As soon as the
heard of the sail comes out of the TUFFLUFF disconnect the halyard
and stow it onto the
windward pulpit ring.&nbsp; Remove the sheet from the clew
of the old jib, run it through the proper fairlead(s) and bowline
it to the clew of the new jib.&nbsp; Load the sheet onto the leeward primary
winch and take the load that was on the changing sheet. Disconnect the
changing sheet and stow it below. Stow the bag for the new jib below.
Flake the old jib into its bag and stow the bagged sail below.<br />
Prior to the next tack, the bowman retrieves the spare hapyard from the pulpit and stows it at the mastbase. <br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Tack Change (TC):</span><br />
<blockquote>
Used only under the same conditions as an IH/OD, except that the
boat is tacked
allowing for an Inside Drop.&nbsp; Bring the new jib on deck and secure it
to the windward
rail.&nbsp; Attach the TACK to the stemplate.&nbsp; Attach windward halyard
(stored at mast base) to the
head of the jib. &nbsp; Make sure the bag zipper is 'peeling' and start to
feed the jib
lufftape through the pre-feeder, the feeder and into the groove, pull
the slack out of the halyard so the head is 3-4 feet into
the TUFFLUFF.<br />
While this happening, undo the lazy sheet from the old jib, refeed
it through the fairleads is needed and bowline it onto the clew of the
new jib.&nbsp; Position the
windward lead car for the new jib.&nbsp; Hoist the new jib.&nbsp; The boat
will be
tacked a bit slower than normal.&nbsp; A soon as the old jib is luffing,
release the old jib halyard and give a
quick tug on the luff at the bow, the sail should tumble down on
the deck.&nbsp; The new jib is trimmed as normal on the leeward primary
winch.<br />
Detach the remaining
sheet from the old jib, change fairleads if required and bowline it onto the new
jib.&nbsp; Set the now windward lead car to the correct position.&nbsp; Disconnect the old
jib halyardand stow it at the base of the mast.&nbsp; Bag the old jib and stow it
below.&nbsp; Stow the bag for the new jib below.<br />
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Things to watch out for:</span><br />
<blockquote>
Always check aloft to make sure that the halyards are running free.&nbsp; Before
attaching the halyard to the head of the sail, make sure that the sail is not twisted in
the bag by following the luff tape from tack to head with your fingers.&nbsp; Make every
effort to keep the sail from dropping outside the lifelines (especially on an Outside
Drop). &nbsp; If the sails are wet and stick together, lift the foot of the inside sail to
allow wind to separate them and pull down hard on the luff.<br />
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Drill:</span>&nbsp; On a day of light to moderate breeze, start
with the #1Light in the starboard groove and closehauled on starboard tack.&nbsp; OH/ID to
the #1Heavy.&nbsp; Tack Change to the #3.&nbsp; OH/ID to the #1Light.&nbsp; Tack Change to
the #1Heavy. Tack. IH/OD to the #1Light.&nbsp; This drill can be repeated in heavier air
using the #2, #3 and #4 jibs.<br />
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-8-genoa-sail-changes.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-1074073983789661942</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:03:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:03:06.133-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 7: Man-Over-Board Maneuvers</title><description>Should you see someone fall overboard YELL <span style="color: green;"><strong>'MAN
OVERBOARD'</strong></span> move to place outside the Boom Envelope
while keeping your eye
on the MOB, stand (if possible and point to the MOB.&nbsp; NEVER take
your eye off the MOB and CONTINUE
TO POINT to the MOB until they are retrieved.&nbsp; The helmsman or
maintrimmer deploys the 'horse-shoe, MOB-pole, strobe' package as
quickly as possible. The Mastman prepares to Genoa-halyard for a douse.
The helmsman initiates a turn to windward. As soon as the Genoa stops
drawing it is doused. The Mainsheet is hauled all the way on, so the
boom is centered and held there.<br />
As the boat tacks, the Mainsail is held at the centerline.
Continue to turn until running nearly downwind to a point where the boat
can be jibed and sailed nearly closehauled back to the MOB. As you
approach the MOB ease the mainsail to reduce speed so that the boat is
nearly at a standstill when you make contact with the MOB.<br />
Depending on the size and condition of the crewman in the water,
it may necessary to haul him aboard with a tackle. Use a Spinnaker
Halyard to set the tackle.<br />
In case of difficult conditions, the lifesling should be
deployed. Steer the boat in circles around the MOB until he can reach
the lifesling. Using the hoisting tackle, bring the victim aboard.<br />
Once the MOB is aboard, bring him/her below and assess their
medical condition. Apply first aid, warming blankets and other measures
as needed. If there is a medical emergency requiring outside assistance,
declare a MAYDAY on channel 16 of the VHF and work with the Coast Guard
to get assistance. <br />
As soon as possible, lower all sails and engage the engine<br />
Additional information on use and deployment of a <a href="http://www.ussailing.org/safety/Studies/2001_bc1.htm" target="_blank">Life Sling</a> from US Sailing.<br />
Additional information on the <a href="http://www.ussailing.org/safety/Studies/1986overboardstudy.htm" target="_blank">quickstop</a> from US Sailing. <br />
<br />
There are several types of MOB manouvers. USCG website have good
descriptions of them. It is MANDATORY that the crew practice at least 2
MOBs per month. Use a fender as a victim. Practice with and without the
skipper taking an active role.</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-7-man-over-board-maneuvers.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-1091826913008999288</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:02:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:02:06.001-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 6: Jibing (jib and main)</title><description><blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">Preparation:</span>&nbsp; Helmsman calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'Prepare
To Jibe'</strong></span>, crew moves into position,
Checkstay-trimmer positioned at
companionway, Main-trimmer positioned at traveler, Genoa-trimmer at
the leeward winch (handle removed) and Genoa-tailer positioned
at windward primary winch(sheet loaded and handle in), Bow-man
positioned at leeward chainplates.&nbsp; Note the boat speed,
this is the target speed.&nbsp; If the genoa is poled out, the pole is
unhooked and centered
on the foredeck.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Jibing:</span>&nbsp; Crewboss calls<span style="color: green;"><strong>
'Ready To Jibe'</strong></span>, Helmsman begins a steady turn and calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'Jibing'</strong></span>, when the genoa collapses the Genoa-trimmer
removes the winch handle and releases the sheet and the Bow-man walks the clew to the
other side of the boat.&nbsp; The Checkstay-trimmer releases the windward checkstay, the
genoa-tailer trims the new sheet. <br />
As the course reaches Dead-Downwind the Main-trimmer calls <span style="color: green;"><strong>'Watch The Boom'</strong></span>
and hauls in on the mainsheet as
fast as possible (depending on conditions he can grab all the 'parts'
or just one of the parts to get more power), when the mainsail fills on
the new side the Main-trimmer releases the
mainsheet until the sail reaches the proper trim and the
Checkstay-trimmer adjusts the new
windward checkstay.&nbsp; Trim the Maisail and Genoa and replace the pole
on the new tack if
needed. Trim the sails until the boat reaches the target speed.&nbsp;
Other crew changes
position to keep the boat level by moving over the cabintop.&nbsp;
Everyone stays out of
the Boom Envelope.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Jibing Drill:</span> Perform 10 jibes in a row.&nbsp; The next jibe
starts as soon as the boat has come back to the target speed.</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-6-jibing-jib-and-main.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-796037626709243181</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:01:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T12:01:13.263-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 5: Tacking</title><description><blockquote>
<span style="color: pink;">Closehauled to Closehauled:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Skipper
calls out <span style="color: yellow;"><strong>'Trimmer in the pit'</strong></span>.
The Genoa-trimmer sitting at the aft end of the stack moves off the
rail and loads the windward winch with the sheet and handle, if it has
not already been done. He also moves the fairlead car forward to the
'power position'. The genoa trimmer moves to the active winch and
removes the winch handle, checks with his team-mates and calls <span style="color: yellow;"><strong>'ready'</strong></span>. The helmsman can now start the tack at any time. As the turn is started, call <span style="color: yellow;"><strong>'helms a-lee'</strong></span>
as a cue for the rest of the crew. Everyone continues to hike hard
until the boat stands up. The Checkstay-trimmer moves off the rail to
the companionway and loads the leeward checkstay and handle onto the
leeward secondary winch.The Bow-man moves to front
of mast, staying 'inside' the lazy genoa sheet and facing forward.
When the Genoa backwinds and the bubble works its way back from the luff
to the top spreader the Genoa trimmer flips the turns off the winch
and releases the jib
sheet. The backwind pressure on the Genoa will pull the clew
straight forward, shooting it forward of the chainplates. At this point
the Genoa-trimmer releases the sheet and turns around, ready to
tail the new genoa-sheet.&nbsp; The Bow-man tosses the clew around the
mast and outside the
shrouds.&nbsp; The Checkstay-trimmer releases the checkstay and trims the
new windward checkstay to the 'power setting' as soon as the boom
crosses the boat centerline. The Checkstay-trimmer moves up onto the
rail at this point. The Genoa-tailer hauls in slack from the 'new'
sheet, and
passes the tail of the 'new' sheet to the Genoa-trimmer.&nbsp; The
Genoa-tailer grinds the sheet to the 'power setting' mark, as the
bow-man 'skirts' the foot of the sail inside the lifelines. The
Genoa-tailer then takes control of the tail which allows the
Genoa-trimmer to move up to the rail, putting the final wraps on the
winch and preparing to shift from power to point mode.<br />
Concurrent with these activities, the Main-trimmer pulls the
traveler up as the boat starts to turn and then moves the
traveler to the 'power setting' (lower than pointing) for the other
tack, while in irons and eases mainsheet slightly as the main
starts drawing.<br />
Now that the boat is on the new tack and trimmed for 'power', it
will accelerate to the target speed. As it approachs the target speed,
the Genoa-tailer will ease the fairlead back to the 'point setting' and
sheet in, he will also ease the checkstay to reduce the draft in the
mainsail and the Main-trimmer will trim the mainsheet and bring the
traveler up. These actions will shift gears to a 'point mode'.
<br />
The remaining crew remains hiked out on the windward rail until the last possible moment and scrambles across the boat under the
boom and over the cabin top quickly and quietly, keeping her level.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Tacking to/from other courses:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; When tacking
from courses other the close hauled,&nbsp; trim is adjusted as the boat heads up so that
she is properly trimmed for closehauled just before going into irons. When tacking to
courses other the closehauled, trim is adjusted starting from the closehauled setup as the
boat bears off to the new course.&nbsp; If the trim lags behind the course change, do not
over trim, just go to the marks for the final course (this occurs when maneuvering in
tight quarters, like at the start).</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-5-tacking.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-1493660457695754484</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 19:59:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T11:59:22.967-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 4: Basic sail-trin on JAM courses</title><description><blockquote>
Use the Northsails Tuning guide to provide setup for each course. &nbsp; At level 13 we
will go beyond the guide.&nbsp; The goal is to be able to repeatably setup the same trim.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Close Hauled to Reaching trimming drill:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Steer a
closehauled course, setup according to conditions and tuning guide,
note/mark control line
positions, steer a reaching course, setup according to conditions
and tuning guide,
note/mark control line positions,&nbsp; announce alter course and trim
from closehauled to
reaching 10 times, hold at each course until boat speed reaches the
polar-target and then sail at target speed for 5 minutes.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Silent drill:</span>&nbsp; Skipper will vary the course with NO
ANNOUNCEMENT and hold until the trim has been reset and boat speed is at polar target speed, crew is
expected to communicate amongst themselves.</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-4-basic-sail-trin-on-jam-courses.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-5553185261073551877</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 19:58:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T11:58:25.824-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 3: Sailiing in a straight line</title><description><blockquote>
<u><strong><span style="color: blue;">Crew Position:</span></strong></u> <br />
<span style="color: blue;">Close Hauled:</span> Line up on the windward
rail starting at the
chainplates.&nbsp; Typical positions on the rail when ther is breeze are:
Bow-man, Mastman#1, Mastman#2,
Checkstay-trimmer and Genoa-tailer. The Genoa-trimmer, remains at
the leeward primary winch.
&nbsp; The Main- trimmer sits at the front of cockpit and the Helmsman
sits even with the
traveler. In light conditions crew moves to the leeward rail to keep
the optimum heel angle. In ultra-light conditions, crew goes below and
sits as near the forward bulkhead as possible, use the inclinometer to
keep the heel angle at optimum.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Reaching:</span> When reaching in a
Jib-and-Main configuration, positions are as described in the Close
Hauled section. When reaching with the spinnaker, the Genoa Trimmer
becomes the Spinaker Trimmer and positions at the chainplates (use the
shrouds for stability). The Checkstay Trimmer remains in the hotbox and
grinds the leeward secondary winch as needed to trim the chute. The
Genoa-tailer becomes the Afterguy Trimmer and is positioned at the
windward primary winch. The Main-Trimmer and Helmsman move back just
enough to give them room. The rest of the crew is positioned for optimum
heel and keeping the fore-aft trim level.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Running:</span> The Bow-man sits
forward of the mast. Mastman#1 sits at the winch for the spinnaker
uphaul. &nbsp;
The Genoa-trimmer moves forward to the windward chainplates with
the spinnaker sheet and
trims the sheet.&nbsp; The Genoa-tailer is stationed at the windward
primary winch to
trim the afterguy.&nbsp; The Checkstay-trimmer crouches in the hotbox
and grinds the leeward secondary winch as needed. The Main-Trimmer and
Helmsman move back just enough to give them room. The rest of the crew
is positioned for optimum heel and keeping the fore-aft trim level.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Hiking:</span>&nbsp; Sit heavy with legs outboard and torso over the
lower life-line and under the upper life-line.&nbsp; For extra hiking move butts toward
the rail.<br />
<u><span style="color: blue;">Helmsmanship:</span></u>&nbsp; Steer the boat in
a straight line for 2 minutes at each major course.&nbsp; Call out trim changes required
to compensate for weather/leeward helm conditions.</blockquote>
</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-3-sailiing-in-straight-line.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-7979484671364683525</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 19:57:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T17:09:45.096-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 2: Hoisting and Dousing the Main and Genoa</title><description>Before we can go sailing we have attached the sails to the boat properly<br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: blue;">Bend-on the Main:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; For a Mainsail with
a foot-shelf, unroll the sail on the foredeck with the clew near the
mast. Load the foot of the sail into the slot on the top of the boom,
starting at the gooseneck
with the clew, and pull the clew toward the end of the boom, feeding the bolt-rope smoothly into the slot as you go.&nbsp; When
the ring at the
tack lines up with the hole in the reefing hooks at the gooseneck,
slide the bayonet pin through the fitting and the
sail.&nbsp; Fasten the clew with the shackle on
the outhaul car at the end of the boom.&nbsp; Attach the outhaul shackle
to the clew of the sail. &nbsp;For a loose footed main, everything is the same, except that there is no bolt-rope on the foot, so you can simply attach at the tack and clew. Insert the battens. &nbsp; Different mains
have different batten pocket constructions. With tapered battens,
always insert the thin (flexible) end first. &nbsp; Run the reefing lines
through the cringle on the leech of the sail and back down to the boom.
The reefing lines are lashed around the boom with a bowline. Tape off
the tail of the bowline to prevent it
shaking loose when the sail luffs. Flake or roll the sail and
secure it with sail-ties, using slipping half-hitches. Cover the sail with the sail-cover to prevent
exposure to UV and so our fans can see the boat-name.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Bend-on the Genoa:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Locate the correct sail
bag in the cabin and bring in on deck through the companionway
hatch.&nbsp; Feeding the clew end out first makes things easier. Depending on
the type of
hoist, set the bag on the correct rail with the tack forward and tie
the bag to the
life-lines. &nbsp;Open the forward zipper and clip the tack to the semi-circular ring at the bow.&nbsp; Tie
on the
sheets using bowlines (tied so that the tails are to the inside of
the loops and the loops
are short).&nbsp; Reeve the sheets around the proper side of the shrouds
(outside for
&nbsp; #1, #2 and inside for #3, #4) and through the lead cars (aft only
for #1, #2 and both fore and aft for #3, #4). Set genoa leads
to the correct marks.&nbsp; Attach the appropriate halyard (keep light
tension on it at all times) to the head of the
sail and start the luff-tape through the feeder and into the appropriate
groove of the
tuff-luff. &nbsp;Run the aft-zipper off the end
(towards the bow) and 'break it open'. Pass the word back to the cockpit, "Foredeck
ready to hoist #?". Make sure they acknowledge.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Hoisting the Main:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Remove the
sail-cover and stow it below. Ease the Main Halyard and allow the boom
to rest on the Vang. Open the main halyard shackle at the clew and pass the
halyard forward (keep it inside the check-stays). Attach the Main
Halyard to the headboard with the threads to port and the finger knob to starboard and prefeed the luff through the pre-feeder and
into the boltrope slot in the mast, while taking in the slack all the time. Pass the word back to the cockpit, "Ready to hoist
the Mainsail". When ordered to "READY TO HOIST", remove all sail-ties
and
give them to the crew at the hotbox, who will hang them on the companionway
handholds.&nbsp; The helmsman stands straddling the tiller and holds the
checkstays apart so that they don't foul on the leech as the Mainsail is
hoisted.&nbsp; As the helmsman bring the boat into the wind and reduces
speed to the minimum required for steerage, release the boom-vang and
the outhaul.&nbsp; Ease the main sheet as
required to keep the sail luffing.<br />
When ordered to "HOIST" jump the main-halyard at the mast.&nbsp; This
requires
one crew member to pull down on the halyard from the mast-exit
towards the turning block
at the base of the mast, while another crew member is tailing off
the winch.&nbsp;As the boltrope in the luff of the mainsail feeds into the
slot on the mast, make sure that it does not 'jump out'. A steady
hoisting speed is required. As the headboard approaches the check-stay
attachment points on the mast, do not foul the check-stays on the
headboard. Keeping the boat head-to-wind and keeping tension and
separation of the check-stays will help. If needed lower the halyard and
to clear the foul, and try again. When
the tension becomes too great, the 'jumper' can grab the halyard
halfway between the
mast-exit and the turning block and pull the halyard away from the
mast (one foot near the chainplates and one foot near the turning block
by
the mast adds leverage) as the tailer holds the halyard form
slipping on the winch and
then as the jumper quickly snaps the halyard back toward the mast the tailer
takes up the new slack.
&nbsp; Working together like this often results in a complete hoist
without need for
grinding the winch.&nbsp; If required, winch the halyard to the
appropriate mark. &nbsp;
Trim the outhaul, and trim the boom-vang as required, before the sail loads up.&nbsp; Bear off and
trim the main sheet.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Hoisting the Genoa:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Jump the halyard, as described above, to the mark. &nbsp;The aft zipper will split open as the leach of the sail emerges further aft. Trim the genoa sheet. &nbsp;Remove bag from the rail
and pass it to the hotbox. Fold the bag starting with the tack end
and stow it below.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Lowering the Genoa:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
The technique for lowering the genoa depends entirely on the type of
sail change being made.&nbsp; See Level #8 for details.&nbsp; The objective is to
get the sail down on deck, inside the life-lines, quickly.&nbsp; If it is
possible to "flake" the sail on the way down, that is good, but not at
the expense of speed or flogging.&nbsp; The sail can be flaked and packed in
its bag later if required. The doused sail should be flaked and bagged
as soon as practical. Pass the bagged sail back to the companionway
hatch or down the forward hatch and stow it below.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">Lowering the Main:</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Whenever possible the
helmsman will bring the boat to a course 5 degrees off head-to-wind.&nbsp; The
main-sheet should
be tightened to prevent the boom from swinging.&nbsp; Ease the halyard
and dump the sail
on the leeward deck.&nbsp; Unhook the halyard shackle from the
head-board and pass it back so it can attach on
the clew ring of the sail.&nbsp; Ease the mainsheet and
release the vang. Hoist the mainhalyard until the boom is parallel to
the waterline. Tension the mainsheet and center the traveler car. To
roll the sail start at the uppermid-draft stripe
and roll the sail on the opposite side of the boom from the
'pile'.&nbsp; The sail will
'flow over boom into the roll. Make sure the luff end is rolled
tight and that the battens are not bent. &nbsp; If needed, disconnect the
tack pin to finish the roll at the clew. Secure the roll with 5 sail ties,
so that it hangs evenly under the boom with a minimum of creases.
Retrieve the sail cover from below decks and cover the sail.</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-2-hoisting-and-dousing-main-and.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item><item><guid isPermaLink="false">tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2797288101165926929.post-8592835863189245371</guid><pubDate>Fri, 29 Nov 2013 19:53:00 +0000</pubDate><atom:updated>2013-11-29T16:45:07.601-08:00</atom:updated><title>Level 1: The Boat</title><description><span style="color: #444444;">These are items and terms that you need to know.....</span><br />
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b><br /></b></span></u>
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b>Directions:</b></span></u><br />
Port, Starboard, Windward, Leeward<br />
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b>Sails:</b></span></u><br />
Main, Genoa, Spinnaker, Luff, Leech, Foot, Tack, Clew, Head<br />
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b>Standing Rigging:</b></span></u><br />
Mast, Boom, Spinnaker pole, Boom Vang, Side Stay, Checkstay, Forestay, Backstay, Chainplates, Turnbuckles, Backstay adjuster, Spreaders<br />
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b>Running Rigging:</b></span></u><br />
Main Halyard, Genoa Halyards, Spinnaker Halyards, Jib Sheet, Main Sheet (coarse &amp; fine), Spinnaker Guy, Spinnaker Sheet, Spinnaker Pole Uphaul, Spinnaker Pole Downhaul, Mastring Halyard, Cunningham rope, Outhaul, Reefing lines, Fairlead sheet, Twings<br />
<span style="color: blue;"><u><b>Points of sail:</b></u></span><br />
Port-tack, Starboard-tack, Close Hauled, Close Reach, Reach, Broad Reach, Run<br />
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b>Safety:</b></span></u><br />
PFD's, Boom Envelope, Liferaft, Lifesling and Lifting Tackle, MOB-pole, VHF Radio<br />
<u><span style="color: blue;"><b>Winch and Line Stopper Operation:</b></span></u><br />
Loading a winch, Grinding, Tailing, Adding a wrap, Easing, Releasing<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;"><u>Instruments:</u></span></b><br />
KVH Fluxgate Compass, OCKAM Instruments, PC based Software, Battery Monitor</description><link>http://tmhowwedoit.blogspot.com/2013/11/level-1-boat.html</link><author>noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous)</author><thr:total>0</thr:total></item></channel></rss>
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