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<description>Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's</description>
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<title>Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2025 edition</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/19/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2025-edition/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2025-edition</link>
<comments>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/19/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2025-edition/#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Thu, 19 Dec 2024 19:46:36 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest 2025 Coverage]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest Popular Posts]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=46640</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April:</p>
<p>- Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database (posted December 16, 2024)<br />
- Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition - A detailed look at Everest's commercial, standard and non-standard routes. (posted December 19, 2024)<br />
- How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition - My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest, solo, unsupported and guided.<br />
- Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage - an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season.</p>
<p>2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.</p>
<p>This is an updated post of my annual "Comparing the Routes of Everest " blog post. For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes is the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For today's commercial clients, all other routes are too dangerous, complicated, and not commercially guided. This post will examine the various routes and explore the most popular commercial through 2024.</p>
<p>Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer's. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on the button, which is always at the top right sidebar. #everest2025</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/19/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2025-edition/">Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2025 edition</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46640</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/16/everest-by-the-numbers-2025-edition/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=everest-by-the-numbers-2025-edition</link>
<comments>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/16/everest-by-the-numbers-2025-edition/#comments</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Tue, 17 Dec 2024 00:02:21 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest 2025 Coverage]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest Popular Posts]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=46639</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several Everest 2025 big-picture updates before the season officially begin in early April:</p>
<p>- Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database<br />
- Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition - A detailed look at Everest's routes, commercial, standard and non-standard.<br />
- How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition - My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest, solo, unsupported and guided.<br />
- Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage - an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season.</p>
<p>2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.</p>
<p>I've updated my annual "Everest by the Numbers" blog post. I looked at summit and death rates, the use of oxygen and its impact on summits and deaths, and disturbing trends like the increasing support for climb. I hope this is useful for everyone.</p>
<p>Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer's. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on this button, which is always at the top right sidebar. #everest2025</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/16/everest-by-the-numbers-2025-edition/">Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
<wfw:commentRss>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/16/everest-by-the-numbers-2025-edition/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46639</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>PSA: Looking for climbers who have attempted mountains above 6,000 meters</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/07/psa-looking-for-climbers-who-have-used-hypoxic-training-systems/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=psa-looking-for-climbers-who-have-used-hypoxic-training-systems</link>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Sat, 07 Dec 2024 23:35:05 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=45550</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>As a public service announcement, I'm sending this invitation to participate in research for climbers who have attempted mountains above 6,000 m.</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/12/07/psa-looking-for-climbers-who-have-used-hypoxic-training-systems/">PSA: Looking for climbers who have attempted mountains above 6,000 meters</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">45550</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 10–Everest with Adrian Ballinger & Mike Hamill Interview</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/17/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-10-everest-with-adrian-ballinger-mike-hamill-interview/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=podcast-series-7-summits-episode-10-everest-with-adrian-ballinger-mike-hamill-interview</link>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Sun, 17 Nov 2024 20:17:29 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[7 Summits]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Adrian Ballinger]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Mike Hamill]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Seven Summits]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=46575</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 10, Everest with special guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hamill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits. #7summits</p>
<p>Mount Everest is the highest mountain in Asia and the world, at 29,031.69 feet or 8848.86 meters, making it the highest of the Seven Summits. With seemingly unlimited attraction, climbing Chomolungma has dramatically changed over the decades.</p>
<p>Stradling the border of China (Tibet) and Nepal, it grows by about 0.0063-0.021 inches or 0.16 to 0.53 millimeters annually due to the northward movement of the Indian tectonic plate and a "rebound" effect caused by merging rivers. Everest is so high that it juts into the jetstream, atmospheric winds that typically travel west to east at speeds ranging from 80 to 140 miles per hour but can accelerate up to 275 miles per hour.</p>
<p>Through January 2024, there have been 12,015 summits (5,907 members and 6,108 hired). In other words, more support climbers, primarily Sherpas, have summited than foreigners. Yet more foreigners, 200, have died on Everest than support climbers, 117.</p>
<p>It has become an economic powerhouse, attracting millions into the Nepal economy, an estimated 10% of GDP, through flights, hotels, taxis, restaurants, teahouses, yak herders and massive, dominating guiding enterprises. In 2024, 80% of the Everest summits were on Nepali-owned guide company teams, compared to 20% a decade earlier. However, with that dominance comes a downside: an all-time record 18 climbers died on Everest in 2022. Twenty-six people have died in the last two years climbing Everest; of that total, 23 were clients of Nepali operators. That’s 88% of the total for the two years.</p>
<p>In this last 7 Summits Podcast, I briefly overview the peak and then delve into several topics with guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hamill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits.</p>
<p>All Episodes</p>
<p>Introduction<br />
Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m<br />
Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m<br />
Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m<br />
Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m<br />
Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m<br />
Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m<br />
Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m<br />
Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m<br />
Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/17/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-10-everest-with-adrian-ballinger-mike-hamill-interview/">Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 10–Everest with Adrian Ballinger & Mike Hamill Interview</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46575</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 9–Aconcagua with Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/10/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-9-aconcagua-with-garrett-madison-ed-vesturs-interview/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=podcast-series-7-summits-episode-9-aconcagua-with-garrett-madison-ed-vesturs-interview</link>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Sun, 10 Nov 2024 20:17:29 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[7 Summits]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Aconcagua 2008]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Aconcagua]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Ed Viesturs]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Garrett Madison]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Seven Summits]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=46560</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 9, Acocangua with special guests Garret Madison and Ed Viesturs.</p>
<p>Next week, I wrap up this series with an Everest episode and special guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hammill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits. #7summits</p>
<p>Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, at 22,902/6960m. It is an excellent warmup before climbing Everest, testing your fitness at altitude and thoroughly testing your gear in harsh conditions. It's a cold peak and an excellent cultural experience.</p>
<p>Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview</p>
<p>I managed to nab these two legends to discuss Aconcagua and other mountaineering topics.</p>
<p>Ed guided Ryan, my 19-year-old Summit Coach client, who summited Everest in style this year, up Aconcagua as he prepared for his climb. Obviously, Ed is a wealth of mountaineering knowledge, so we discussed Acocangua, common climbing mistakes, and, of course, Everest, as well as finding Sandy Irvine's foot in his boot this year.</p>
<p>Garrett is well known as the founder and owner of Maddison Mountaineering. He will be on Everest for his hopefully 15th summit, tying Dave Hahn for the second-most summits by a non-Sherpaa. Kenton Cool has the title at 18. Garrett also recently summited Carystensz after a five-year break when the government closed the peak due to violence in the area. He gives us a quick update on that.</p>
<p>Episodes will drop each week:</p>
<p>September 15: Introduction<br />
September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m<br />
September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m<br />
October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m<br />
October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m<br />
October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m<br />
October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m<br />
November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m<br />
November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m<br />
November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/10/podcast-series-7-summits-episode-9-aconcagua-with-garrett-madison-ed-vesturs-interview/">Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 9–Aconcagua with Garrett Madison & Ed Vesturs Interview</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46560</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 8–Denali with Dave Hahn Interview</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/03/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-8-denali-with-dave-hahn-interview/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-8-denali-with-dave-hahn-interview</link>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Sun, 03 Nov 2024 20:17:30 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[7 Summits]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Denali Coverage]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Dave Hahn]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Elbrus]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Seven Summits]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=45585</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 8, Denali with special guest Dahn Hahn who has summtied it 38 times. #7summits</p>
<p>Alaska's Denali is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet (6,190 meters). It requires the strongest fitness level, Everest's altitude notwithstanding, of the Seven Summits to climb. Yet it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on the planet. It's not a climb to be underestimated, but a rewarding experience if you can climb it.</p>
<p>Overview</p>
<p>Denali is located in central Alaska, 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and 200 miles East of the Bearing Sea. Denali is the native American name for the mountain, but in 1896, Prospector William Dickey renamed the peak Mt. McKinley for Presidential nominee William McKinley of Ohio. Denali National Park and Preserve was established as Mount McKinley National Park on February 26, 1917. The surrounding area was named Denali National Park by the National Park Service in 1980. In 2015, the mountain's name was officially renamed Denali.</p>
<p>The 20,310-foot south summit was first attempted in 1903, and the first summit was in 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, and Robert Tatum. Harper was a Native Alaskan.</p>
<p>Like many of the Seven Summits, Denali has gained in popularity, with well over 1,000 people attempting each year. The attempts peaked in 2005 at 1,340, and 2013 had the most summits with 775. 2023 was a difficult weather year with only a 30% summit rate. Through 2023, 49,818 climbers have attempted Denali, with 25,835 summiting, a 52% success rate.</p>
<p>Deaths occur almost yearly due to frostbite, weather, and poor preparedness. Nearly 100 have died, including 11 in 1992.</p>
<p>Dave Hahn Interview</p>
<p>I've known Dave for years, having run into him on Denali and Everest several times.</p>
<p>Dave is a world-class mountain guide. He has been a guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) for nearly 40 years. His summits are impressive: 300+ on Rainier, 40 on Vinson, 38 summits of Denali out of 49 attempts, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua, plus others. He also loves to guide the Shackleton Crossing on South Georgia Island. Also, Dave had more Everest summits at 15 than any foreigner until Kenton Cool passed him with 18.</p>
<p>He is an accomplished climber and an impressive writer who provides some of the most insightful dispatches from any climb. I was lucky to catch him at home in Taos, where he has been a professional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley since 1985.</p>
<p>I wanted to do a deep dive into climbing Denali and mine his experience for the nuances of climbing the "Great One."</p>
<p>Episodes will drop each week:</p>
<p>September 15: Introduction<br />
September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m<br />
September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m<br />
October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m<br />
October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m<br />
October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m<br />
October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m<br />
November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m<br />
November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m<br />
November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/11/03/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-8-denali-with-dave-hahn-interview/">Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 8–Denali with Dave Hahn Interview</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">45585</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 7–Kilimanjaro</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/28/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-7-kilimanjaro-2/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-7-kilimanjaro-2</link>
<comments>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/28/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-7-kilimanjaro-2/#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 28 Oct 2024 19:17:30 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[7 Summits]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Kilimanjaro 2011]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Kilimanjaro]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Seven Summits]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=46524</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Of all the Seven Summits, Kilimanjaro offers a two-for kind of “climb.” Well, to be accurate, it’s more of a trek to […]</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/28/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-7-kilimanjaro-2/">Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 7–Kilimanjaro</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
<wfw:commentRss>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/28/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-7-kilimanjaro-2/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46524</post-id> </item>
<item>
<title>Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 6–Elbrus, Russia</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/20/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-6-elbrus-russia/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-6-elbrus-russia</link>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Sun, 20 Oct 2024 19:17:30 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[7 Summits]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Elbrus 2011]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Elbrus]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Seven Summits]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=45548</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to my limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 6, Elbrus, Russia. #7summits</p>
<p>Of all the Seven Summits, Elbrus offers a unique cultural experience as it lies in Russia. Thus, it is the highest peak in Europe and is considered an active volcano. Mont Blanc is second and highest in Western Europe. The Ukraine war has discouraged many climbers from going there, but a few still make it, including Americans. However, the US State Department strongly advises Americans against entering Russia for any reason.</p>
<p>Overview</p>
<p>Mount Elbrus is an extinct volcano in the Caucasus Main Range, the European border with Asia in southern Russia between the Black and Caspian seas. It has two main summits: the western summit at 18,513'/5642m and the eastern summit at 18,442'/5621m. A Russian army team was the first to ascend the West Summit in 1829, and an English team at the East Summit in 1874.</p>
<p>The regular climbing season is from May to September. The climb is relatively short by 7 Summit standards, taking less than a week at most. I climbed from the north side using a base camp and a high camp, where we launched the summit bid. This side offers more of a climbing experience and is significantly less crowded.</p>
<p>The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: #Aconcagua, #Kilimanjaro, #Elbrus, #Denali, #Vinson and #Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit #Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summits</p>
<p>Episodes will drop each week:</p>
<p>September 15: Introduction<br />
September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m<br />
September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m<br />
October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m<br />
October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m<br />
October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m<br />
October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m<br />
November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m<br />
November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m<br />
November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/20/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-6-elbrus-russia/">Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 6–Elbrus, Russia</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<title>Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 5–Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/17/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-5-carstensz-pyramid-puncak-jaya-new-guinea/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-5-carstensz-pyramid-puncak-jaya-new-guinea</link>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Thu, 17 Oct 2024 21:41:35 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[7 Summits]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Seven Summits]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=45501</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. Today is Episode 5, Carstensz Pyramid</p>
<p>Of all the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid, aka Puncak Jaya, in New Guinea is undoubtedly the most exotic and technical to climb. It's also part of the "list" discussion. Are there seven or eight "Seven Summits?" But just getting there can be the real challenge. The Freeport Mining company controls the area and employs 12,000 people. They often close roads, detain climbers trespassing on their land, and labor strikes can bring the entire area to a halt.</p>
<p>Kosciuszko and Carstensz Pyramid vie, for which is the seventh of the Seven Summits. Most people who want to climb all seven climb all eight! Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea, is 16,023 feet/4884 meters high. The mountain is in the Sudirman Range of the highlands of Mimika Regency, Central Papua, Indonesia. It's expensive, in the mid-$20,000 range for the 2024 season.</p>
<p>The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson and Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summits</p>
<p>Episodes will drop each week:</p>
<p>September 15: Introduction<br />
September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m<br />
September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m<br />
October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m<br />
October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m<br />
October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m<br />
October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m<br />
November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m<br />
November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m<br />
November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/17/podcast-series-7-summits-eposide-5-carstensz-pyramid-puncak-jaya-new-guinea/">Podcast Series: 7 Summits Eposide 5–Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<title>Remains thought to be Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine found on Everest</title>
<link>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/11/remains-thought-to-be-andrew-sandy-irvine-found-on-everest/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=remains-thought-to-be-andrew-sandy-irvine-found-on-everest</link>
<comments>https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/11/remains-thought-to-be-andrew-sandy-irvine-found-on-everest/#comments</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alan Arnette]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Oct 2024 23:25:52 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Climbing News]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Everest]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[George Mallory]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Sandy Irvine]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/?p=45493</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>One of the most enduring mysteries of mountaineering, or perhaps in all sports, was the 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Sandy Irvine. It's most notable for whether they summited or not. If they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years. Mallory's body was found in 1999, but there was no proof that he died going up or coming down, thus the importance of finding the camera and potential photos of a summit.</p>
<p>Now we have more clues. This past Autumn 2024, a National Geographic team hoping to ski the Hornbein Couiler on the Tibet side of Everest had to abandon their project due to weather and timing. Instead, once they got home, they told the world that they discovered a leather hobnail boot containing what they thought was Sandy Irvine's foot. An attached sock has a tag sewn onto it reading "A.C. Irvine." They found it at the base of a glacier, where recent warm temperatures may have released its icy grip. They took a DNA sample for positive identification with the family's permission.</p>
The post <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/10/11/remains-thought-to-be-andrew-sandy-irvine-found-on-everest/">Remains thought to be Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine found on Everest</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.alanarnette.com/blog">The Blog on alanarnette.com</a>.]]></description>
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<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
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