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<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?><!-- generator="FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net)" --><rss version="2.0"> <channel> <title>Thingiverse - Erik's Things</title> <description><![CDATA[Keep up to date on all the things that Erik is sharing.]]></description> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/Erik</link> <lastBuildDate>Fri, 17 May 2024 20:09:49 +0100</lastBuildDate> <generator>FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net)</generator> <language>en-us</language> <copyright>Copyright 2024, Thingiverse.com</copyright> <item> <title>Mirror mounting system</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33954</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33954"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/a6/2f/27/04/ed/IMG_20121104_174746_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>I removed these files from Thingiverse because I don't agree with Stratasys/Makerbot and because there's a better alternative.You can find them on their new home: YouMagine!<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mirror-mounting-system">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mirror-mounting-system</a> </p><p>Doing it yourself is never more fun if you have an (Ultimaker) 3D printer! Last weekend I made some nice mirror mounts with a flexure latch. </p><p>The mirror just 'snaps' right into place. </p><p>You couldn't buy mounts that would fit this specific mirror, but you CAN design them and print them at home! </p><p>Same for window drapes (will upload in a minute). We had drapes at a specific length. Now we could just hang them on the wall instead of the ceiling, exactly at the right height, saving us from having to make the drapes 'longer', which is kind of hard to do.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Wed, 07 Nov 2012 12:49:18 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33954</guid> </item> <item> <title>eRabbit</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20974</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20974"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/89/bd/d8/89/ed/Screen_Shot_2012-04-07_at_6.08.04_PM_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>eRabbit is the rabit with my own head, but the E also stands for the easter Rabbit. We scanned our heads with ReconstructMe.</p><p>It was manipulated with MeshMixer, a great program to add ears to heads, just to mention one thing.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Sat, 07 Apr 2012 12:37:23 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20974</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:65569" length="2846795" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Wire twisting tool</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7545</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7545"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/2c/c0/9d/9d/38/tinkerCAD1_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>The file was removed from Thingiverse by myself and found a new home at YouMagine:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="YouMagine"></a><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wire-twisting-tool">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wire-twisting-tool</a> </p><p>This is a simple tool to put in a hand-drill to twist pairs of wires to reduce EMI (electromagnetic interference), most notably though cross talk among wires that run alongside each other. </p><p>It was designed in about 60 seconds in TinkerCAD. You can copy and edit this design by following this link:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://tinkercad.com/p/acc0cc7b36eef1df">https://tinkercad.com/p/acc0cc7b36eef1df</a> </p><p>Printed by an Ultimaker, for Ultimakers! We pre-twist the 6 endstop wires. This way, Ultimaker builders will save some time with assembly. </p><p>This video shows how this part has undergone and passed extreme stress tests:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPTIE9gWr0M">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPTIE9gWr0M</a></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Sun, 03 Apr 2011 15:35:01 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7545</guid> </item> <item> <title>AD597 thermocouple amplifier carrier</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7311</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7311"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/7e/10/ce/ee/52/300px-TC1_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is the Ultimaker temperature sensor (version 1) that is based on the AD597. It amplifies the signal from a type K thermocouple and has the same mV/K output as the polular AD595 board that is used in many RepRap projects. It's about the size of a thumbnail (hence the out-of-focus picture). The amp chip is an SOT-8. The screw terminals are extra small (2.54 mm pitch) and holes are M3.</p><p>They were designed in Eagle CAD by Siert Wijnia and myself. </p><p>The files are found here on the RepRap wiki:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple_board_v0.4.sch">http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple_board_v0.4.sch</a><br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple_board_v0.4.brd">http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple_board_v0.4.brd</a></p><p>It has a nice bright blue LED, great for long exposure photography of a print (for moving head machines). The picture with the lit LED is a prototype made with the help of Jelle, who's also designer of the UltiRouter: <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="/thing:7110">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7110</a></p><p>Separate sensor boards (pre-assembled) will be available within a month or two. On request we can also offer the PCBs in quantities of 20 and more.</p><p>FIXES in the next release:</p><ul><li>A ground plane!</li><li>Pads on the other side so you can decide where to mount the terminals or headers.</li></ul></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Thu, 24 Mar 2011 17:47:26 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7311</guid> </item> <item> <title>Open Pick-N-Place Tape Feeder</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7291</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7291"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/1e/4a/8d/ee/27/IMG_4726_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>The files have been moved to YouMagine, a really nice place to share your 3D designs! They can be found here: </p><hr><p><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/open-pick-n-place-tape-feeder">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/open-pick-n-place-tape-feeder</a> </p><hr><p>This is part of my efforts to automate assembly of PCBs, using an existing 3D printer with a pick-and-place toolhead instead of acquiring a 40K euro machine. This is a parametric design that can be easily adjusted for various sizes of SMD tape. The gear will also be adjusted depending on the pitch of the tape and components. </p><p>A tape feeder like this can cost about 1 euro instead of 200 euro's. </p><p>Like most of my design, it was designed in OpenSCAD, <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://openSCAD.org">http://openSCAD.org</a> a wonderful tool, especially if you're more of a TUI person than a GUI person. </p><p>Personally, I really like the recursion that you can print and cut these parts on open source machines and that they will allow you to automatically assemble the PCBs for 3D printers and laser cutters. Also, the laser cutter can be open source, which is what our friends in Utrecht are working on: see <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.laoslaser.org/">http://www.laoslaser.org/</a> </p><p>Video: <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsWpC6L91qo">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsWpC6L91qo</a> </p><p>Derivatives, additions, improvements and suggestions may also be prized as part of the Ultimaker challenge:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://Ultimaker.com/Challenge">http://Ultimaker.com/Challenge</a> !</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Thu, 24 Mar 2011 09:05:17 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7291</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:22464" length="8494" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Lead bender tool</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6699</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6699"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/c0/cd/74/d2/77/IMG_4725_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>I removed these files from Thingiverse because I don't agree with Stratasys/Makerbot and because there's a better alternative.You can find them on their new home: YouMagine!<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/lead-bender-tool">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/lead-bender-tool</a> </p><p>3D printers are productivity enhancers, if you ever get past the fact that it's mesmerizing to keep staring at them. I'm still working on that :) </p><p>This is a parametric (OpenSCAD!) lead bender tool. It's very simple, but it works for me. I've also included a wider version that can be used to bend an entire strip. Currently it's set to the spacing on the PCB I'm soldering. You can adjust it to the width you want. </p><p>It could be improved/derived in at least two ways: </p><ul><li>a version with many different widths. This is now done by HipsterLogic: <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="/thing:6703">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6703</a> </li><li>a little rim that allows you to bend a notch into the leads that keeps the components hanging in place on the PCB without having to bend the wires on the back of the PCB.</li></ul></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 19:45:02 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6699</guid> </item> <item> <title>M8 washer-operated Bottle Opener</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6661</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6661"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/2b/bf/45/c9/8b/penny_opener_mod_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>I spent my last penny, so I needed to (p)improvise this thing :)</p><p>No seriously, the penny is the most expensive part of this bottle opener, so I decided to reduce its cost drastically.</p><p>Well, actually, I simply didn't have any US coins at my disposal and even a penny makes for a pretty bulky bottle-opener, so I decided to use what every Mendel hacker has at least a few kilograms of: M8 washers I shaved of a few flats for this design to be printable in 9 minutes on my Ultimaker at 100 mm/s (0.3 solidity). With PLA this makes for a pretty strong bottle opener.</p><p>The .SCAD file just imports the original file by Nick Starno, and takes a few slices off it where it's not essential. I will do extensive testing with beer bottles :)</p><p>Thanks Nick, for the "original derivative"!</p><p>See the video of it being made and used, in 9 minutes!</p><p><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tywVdUyxaUE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tywVdUyxaUE</a></p><p>9 minutes is the fastest I could print it without too much compromise in quality, it could be nicer if you have a little more patience. The opener does look better when you print it at around 70mm/s, and it'll take about 15 minutes.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2011 03:43:16 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6661</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:20490" length="485" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Label Dispenser [on YouMagine]</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6121</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6121"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/39/48/e2/70/31/youmagine-logo.508x112_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>The files have been moved to a better home... </p><p><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/label-dispenser">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/label-dispenser</a> </p><p>At <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://Ultimaker.com">http://Ultimaker.com</a> we facilitate our operations with laser cut and 3D printed tools, such as this label dispenser. This is the first iteration, but it already works and is a nice time-saver. It's printed in exactly the width of our current labels to minimize the printing time to under 10 minutes, because we needed it fast. It's open-scad, so you can customize it for your label size. Of course a larger one will work for smaller labels as well...<br>Here you can see it being used by its happy user for the first time:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHOK1YTR4NI">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHOK1YTR4NI</a></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Tue, 08 Feb 2011 03:07:13 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6121</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:674498" length="1365" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Basic Male Form</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4920</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4920"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/ed/9f/bb/0b/c1/IMG_4585_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>We had been printing the pink panther woman a few times, but sometimes women would ask why we didn't print any male forms. Yesterday nicholasclewis uploaded this wonderful model. The vertices were very much visible, so I subdivided them a few times and performed a smoothing operation in Meshlab (open source!). There are some other files by nicholasclewis that are not in this derivative post, so be sure to check out those, too!<br>The model is a little 'dirty' because I was still flushing out some black ABS which keeps coming out of the nozzle even after printing hundreds of grams of PLA. Also, this really made the extrusion less smooth than it could be.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Fri, 26 Nov 2010 09:43:58 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4920</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:14844" length="3926084" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>Parametric C-Clamp</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3803</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3803"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/80/f8/b0/4c/a2/clamp-6mmRod-9mmThick_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is the beginning of a class of generic clamps. They are parametric, so the position of the bolt hole, clamping diameter, length and thickness are configurable.</p><p>For now I\'m just starting with the c-clamp, but I\'m hoping to expand it to Y, y, d, p, a shaped clamps and have more configurable parameters (hopefully) with names that are intuitive to you. If this is just what you need and can\'t wait, it\'s okay to beat me to it :)</p><p>Perhaps there's already a taxonomy or list of examples of such clamps and their shapes, if so, please point me to it so I can be compatible with it.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2010 02:40:09 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3803</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:11219" length="109461" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>Mini-Mendel belt extension clip</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3778</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3778"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/33/b1/07/04/57/IMG_4056_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This clip allows you to use a shorter piece of belt. My belt was too short after the pulley extender upgrade to the Mini-Mendel. The STL extends it by 40 mm or 50 mm. The OpenSCAD file is parametric so you can generate it at any length you want.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Fri, 13 Aug 2010 13:01:30 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3778</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:11148" length="807" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Printable push to fit bowden nut-couplings</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/0f/43/bf/c6/f9/IMG_4046_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>More details on the Bowden extruder system: <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Erik%27s_Bowden_Extruder">http://reprap.org/wiki/Erik%27s_Bowden_Extruder</a></p><p>I just made a serendipitous discovery:<br>I printed a very narrowly fitting freely rotating coupling and it had such a good grip on the PTFE that I printed another with just a little more contact area. You don't need the nut anymore for the Bowden cable!<br>I had been looking for push to fit couplings ever since Charles Pax showed me how good they fit to 1/8" PTFE cables. Now it appears that they are definitely printable!</p><p>The current push to fit coupling can be removed sideways. If you pull it sideways at the top first, you can pull it out with the plastic filament inside. It's a huge benefit to not have to pull back the plastic first.</p><p>A variant with a clip that you can pinch with your fingers would perhaps be even better, but this one is so simple and very functional and it hardly takes up any space.</p><p>I also included a cable to cable coupling, you just put in two cables sideways.</p><p>When done correctly, this type of friction from printed parts could be used for the extruder drive mechanism too, replacing the metal pinch-wheels that we currently use. In any case it can already withstand more than the force the force that the filament is driven with, and that's with ultra-slippery PTFE!</p><p>It would also allow us to print fasteners! Though perhaps a simple plug and a cam mechanism will better do the trick. And if you get a similar friction fit on the filament itself, you can start ysing that as structural material too (with some creep, but you could re-tension things once in a while).</p><p>Which other non-printed parts can we eliminate by a superior (I'd like to think this is an improved part, but only time will tell) printed alternative?</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Thu, 12 Aug 2010 17:19:24 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:11134" length="2969" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Mini-Mendel Bowden nut-coupling</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/8b/ee/32/60/84/Mini-Mendel-bowden-nut-coupling_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a hot-end bowden coupling. The PTFE tube will guide the plastic. On the ends of the PTFE tube you can have a M6 nut that will be held captive by this coupling but it can be removed sideways.</p><p>More information on the bowden extruder can be found here:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Erik%27s_Bowden_Extruder">http://reprap.org/wiki/Erik%27s_Bowden_Extruder</a></p><p>Rustyspoon also made a version (thing:2825), but it uses more plastic than needed and the STL is not oriented for correct printing. Otherwise, that one is a robust one that you just need to rotate before printing.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:13:43 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:11126" length="269133" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>FIX: Garden parasol end-cap replacements (spare part)</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3577</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3577"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/49/fd/07/20/6a/More-sun-screen-caps_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>It is not uncommon for suppliers not to want to supply replacement parts: it cannibalizes on their sales of the complete products while it is frequently not a profitable business. Moreover, the logistics are very unfavorable. Suppliers usually don't end up making money of of replacement parts. If they do it (unprofitably), it usually is to prevent hurting their reputation. Supplying small quantities of many different parts to many different destinations is expensive. Plus, you usually end up manufacturing many parts that will not be used, because it was hard to determine which ones will break and which ones won't. Because you have to speculate which parts to produce in which quantities, this creates the problem of under- or overstocking parts that need to be stored and collect dust somewhere until the stocks either run out or become obsolete without being used, ever.</p><p>Being able to fabricate independently from manufacturers and "on demand" is a completely different scenario. My parents have a large garden parasol (a.k.a. sun screen) with rods that keep the skin up. The fabric of the parasols sown to the little caps that I'm replacing. The rods have end-caps that have worn out over time. The rods now protrude the broken rods and/or the places were it was sown broke the piece.</p><p>The broken/replaced parts are the semi-translucent bits alongside the yellow ones.</p><p>The parasol picture is from this website:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://easydealshopping.co.uk/product/Freestanding-Garden-Parasol-Black.html">http://easydealshopping.co.uk/product/Freestanding-Garden-Parasol-Black.html</a></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:29:25 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3577</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:10533" length="696" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Wedding Cake Topper</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/4b/e6/fe/d5/4e/IMG_3530_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>I'm getting married!!! Our guests get a piece of cake. But on every decent cake, there should be a cake topper! I wanted a personal cake topper. While looking on the Google 3D warehouse I found several, but none were satisfactory. I wanted a simpler model that was solid and which had a personal touch. The result is this (parametric) model with the following modules: bride, groom, arm, leg and hat. Everything is made from spheres, cylinders and cubes, as you can see in the exploded view.</p><p>I made a little movie in OpenShot that documents the process:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzL391LfsvE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzL391LfsvE</a></p><p>With some more details on my blog post here:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://bit.ly/flossWedding">http://bit.ly/flossWedding</a></p><p>The groom, without the hat is really a generic \'man\' figure. So you can reuse it and tweak the orientation of the arms and legs.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Wed, 07 Jul 2010 09:16:58 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:10290" length="5350" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>OpenMeccanoLib Example</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2874</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2874"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/4c/b4/a8/f3/44/ballJoint_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a first example of this library which shows how easy it is to use it for Meccano(R) projects.</p><p><b>The code for this object was 5 lines in OpenSCAD!</b> This is due to reuse of libraries. I hope this encourages people to use such libraries and perhaps create Lego to Meccano interfaces and such!</p><p>See the robot-tilt-webcam.scad file for the implementation. See the part this is derived from to find my original Meccano Lib. See ballJoint.scad for a ballJoint script. It is currently only used for the ball, but the joint can be used equally easily.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 11:57:29 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2874</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:8138" length="825" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>OpenMeccano Lib</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2873</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2873"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d0/e7/c0/a2/7c/Screen_shot_2010-05-04_at_4.57.48_PM_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a library to generate L-brackets and bars that are compatible to Meccano(R). It is a start, it can easily be extended to create more parts.</p><p>For the L-brackets, it uses truncated teardrop holes to be printable without supports.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 11:34:47 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2873</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:8133" length="2278" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Bag clip</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2868</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2868"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/99/a3/84/73/de/IMG_1667_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a clip that you can use to clip plastic bags, for example to keep the items inside fresh.</p><p><big><b>Video demonstration:</b></big><br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlYJBXUPk78">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlYJBXUPk78</a></p><p>It was designed in Google SketchUp (source format included!), exported to watertight STL with the CADspan plugin. I repositioned it in blender to be rendered correctly.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 11:13:39 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2868</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:8119" length="46884" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>Standing frame vertex /w anti-vibe feet (mini-mendel)</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/77/79/ae/77/4a/IMG_3152_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is probably unconsciously inspired by my trip to NYC with its tall buildings. In Manhattan they really know how to make use of that third dimension! It has to do with scarce real-estate in the XY plane. This model has a very small footprint so you can print a lot of these in a small XY space. If you're short on horizontal real estate, go up!</p><p>The smaller footprint will also help you if you were having trouble with warping, you don't need a reliable raft for this print.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Wed, 14 Apr 2010 04:01:34 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6231" length="4391" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Trautman Hook (OpenProsthetics)</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/74/87/3c/92/4f/OpenProsthetics_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is the Trautman Hook that was put in the public domain and can be found on <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://openprosthetics.org/">http://openprosthetics.org/</a></p><p>This is not as much an object that I hope people will be printing, <b>I sincerely hope to call out to those those with designs skill, prototyping capacity and vision to collaboratively create innovative, useful and affordable prosthetic 'systems'.</b> I hope that you will not limit your ideas to just the rapid prototyped parts but use all of your making experience. I hope this will be the start of a discussion of what the RepRap/Makerbot/BfB/etc. (and commercial RP/AM) community can do for for those who are unfortunate. I'm confident that we can exchange valuable ideas! Most of us have spare motors, controller boards and various other electronic and mechanical parts, moreover they are similar so we could reproduce each others' solutions including non-RP parts!</p><p>Some questions for discussion:</p><ul><li>How do we make it fit perfectly? (e.g. 3D scanning a clay negative imprint, sparse structure against sweating, etc.)</li><li>What would the ultimate prosthetic 2.0 (sorry for the buzz words!) that you can make for a low budget (e.g. 300 euro's) look like, given the collective tools, personal networks and knowledge that we have?</li><li>Given that we have access to Arduino's (nano would be appropriate), encoders, servo's, accelerometers, gyro's, RFID chips (context aware prosthetics) and varous other tools.</li><li>Can we make prosthetics cool (an not necessarily creepy at the same time). LED's, smooth organic shapes. Not all of us want to look like the Borg.</li><li>Do we know amputees willing to try them and provide directions? (I do, for a lower arm amputee)</li><li>RP parts as light weight sparse structures e.g. ready for fibre layup (composites, etc.). I know it seems much more daunting and serious than the mouse trap challenge that did so well and was a lot of fun. I hope you don't feel like it has to be done right at once and just try out a few things. Please do have fun and try out crazy ideas!</li><li>How do we increase the contact surface to improve grip. Currently small contacts point will allow you to either crush or drop an object and hardly anything in between. Obviously, intricate structures with flexible parts can be made fairly easily with 3D printing.</li></ul><p>I don't intend to just replicate a discussion here while the Open Prosthetics community has their own group. So please get involved in the discussions there if you're interested!</p><p>The image with the foosball table is from <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Army_prosthetic.jpg">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Army_prosthetic.jpg</a></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2010 08:15:35 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6210" length="11152733" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>Mini-mendel 1-sheet.blend</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2165</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2165"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/44/94/bd/f1/ee/IMG_2933_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is an updated version of rustyspoon's 1 sheet mini-mendel. It's basically the same but includes four instances of a part that was missing (thanks for exporting it, Bas Pijls). For some of the washers I'm not sure whether those were meant to be printed or bought, but since printing them is cooler left them in there.</p><p>When I built a mini-mendel from these prints, I actually got it fully working. For info see my documentation on my blog. For more pictures, see here:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/view?uname=erikdebruijn1&isOwner=true&tags=mini-mendel">http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/view?uname=erikdebruijn1&isOwner=true&tags=mini-mendel</a>#</p><p>Documentation of ordering and preparation:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://blog.erikdebruijn.nl/archives/129-Mini-mendel-printed!.html">http://blog.erikdebruijn.nl/archives/129-Mini-mendel-printed!.html</a></p><p>Documentation of my build and a promo-movie of the mini-mendel:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://blog.erikdebruijn.nl/archives/131-Mini-mendel-built-and-working!.html">http://blog.erikdebruijn.nl/archives/131-Mini-mendel-built-and-working!.html</a></p><p>I'm still working on extending the other documentation! Here's a bill of materials (BOM):<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AknsQz4reBoKdHc2MHRfRTZHOHRWTmhCZ01xQWpjYnc&hl=en">http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AknsQz4reBoKdHc2MHRfRTZHOHRWTmhCZ01xQWpjYnc&hl=en</a></p><p>Please help me extend it and add suppliers and such.</p><p>The printed parts you see in the pictures are for a hackerspace in Portugal.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Fri, 09 Apr 2010 12:45:08 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2165</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6128" length="5710432" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Parametric ball joint</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1968</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1968"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/28/5a/82/3c/26/balljoint_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>I saw Makerblock\'s topic about the ball joint, I thought openSCAD was suitable and adviced it, but thought I\'d give it a try myself. This is a very quick hack, but it can be easily modified since it\'s just code.</p><p>In OpenSCAD, you can choose to see an animation of the ball joint in action. Do this by uncommeting \"demo();\" and commenting \"print();\". To print it, choose the latter, press F6 and export to STL.</p><p><b>For a very cool implementation of this 'part' used in a camera mount, see <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="/thing:2631">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2631</a></b></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Sun, 07 Mar 2010 06:50:55 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1968</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5528" length="1859881" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>Z-axis mount for NEMA17 motor (Darwin)</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/92/7f/72/e5/6b/IMG_2289_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>Off topic but very important: Have you participated in the <a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://RepRapSurvey.org">http://RepRapSurvey.org</a> yet? If so, thanks a lot! If not, please do so!</p><p>On topic:<br>If you have a Z-axis that runs smoothly (e.g. by using bearings for the Z-threaded rods), there's really not much need for a heavy NEMA23 motor. For the Darwin's X and Z axis, a NEMA23 motor is only heavy and expensive. This is an alternative setup for your Z-axis to run it of the cheaper NEMA17 motors instead. For using a NEMA17 or your X axis, see my other thing:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="/thing:1525">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1525</a><br>This will also reduce the moving mass that the Y-motor has to move back-and-forth. You can then use a much lower current for the Y-motor or also replace it with a NEMA17.</p><p>For the whole Z-axis assembly, I've now got everything uploaded. I made parts to make a pulley, skate bearing brackets to fit onto the corner brackets.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 09:07:00 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5501" length="4200" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>NEMA23 extruder with mounting slots</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1947</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1947"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/55/ec/9c/f2/0f/IMG_2278_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>Want to upgrade your print-speed?</p><p>This is an extruder that allows you to mount a beefy, high-torque, NEMA23 stepper motor. You can directly attach it to the Bowden cable. With the Bowden extruder (see my other designs under the Thingiverse tag: bowden), the plastic throughput is your print speed bottleneck. Or should I say, was your bottleneck: With a NEMA23 motor I've been able to extrude more than 15 mm^3 of molten ABS per second. That's about a (fully solid) mendel in 22 hours! So now XY-movements are the bottleneck again. For this, I think I need to further reduce the weight of the carriage (lighter rods, etc.).</p><p>Usage:<br>You can simply press the Bowden cable with an M6 nut into the T-slot (to attach the extruder drive mechanism to the extruder head via a Bowden cable).<br>Note: An M5 nut will also work (for smaller PTFE bowden cables), it will be able to slide slightly, but its movement is constrained by the filament.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 11:59:19 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1947</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5482" length="9130" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Bowden Cable Coupling for RepRap</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1899</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1899"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/9e/3c/bf/55/4a/IMG_2280_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is only for people who want to print really fast ;)</p><p>Its use is shown in this video:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSBqBW1w2wE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSBqBW1w2wE</a></p><p>This is the filament drive mechanism end of the Bowden extruder. The same coupling could be used on the other end (the extrusion, or hot end), or a special purpose (smaller) coupling could be designed to fit your specific extruder (one that also clamps the heater insulator).</p><p>The idea of turning a nut onto the PTFE tube comes from profounddevices. I really liked it so much that I replaced my previous design to incorporate this idea.</p><p>I\'m thinking of using the nut as part of an electrical switch to get feedback of when the pressure is fully released. This way you can put reversing functionality in the firmware without needing to configure it per material.</p><p>The concept of using a Bowden cable as guide was suggested and pioneered by Ed Sells. See his post here:<br>blog.reprap.org/2009/04/bowden-extruder-concept.html</p><p>If you can print to high tolerances or don't mind some trial and error prints, you can use a 'push to fit' variant of this coupling:<br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="/thing:3775">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775</a></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Wed, 24 Feb 2010 11:52:04 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1899</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5327" length="312410" type="application/sla"/> </item> <item> <title>NEMA 17 to 23 adapter</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1525</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1525"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/24/ea/19/b8/58/X-Carriage_gimped_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This design has found a new home... </p><p><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nema17-to-23-adapter">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nema17-to-23-adapter</a> </p><p>(This applies to the yellow part in the pictures. In the black and yellow assembly you see it in use)<br>This is an adapter plate that will allow you to put a NEMA 17 compliant stepper motor where there's room for a NEMA 23, and vice versa. I've tested it to work fine for putting a NEMA 17 motor on my X-motor bracket.<br>The SCAD has become a bit messy in the process because I should have used the specification instead of trial and error. But you will probably only need the STL anyway. The rendering looks odd, but it slices fine with skeinforge.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2010 06:50:00 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1525</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4128" length="2651" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Bearing bracket for darwin Z-axis mod</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1441</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1441"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/7d/cc/99/84/ce/Z-tri-bearing_bracket_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is for a modified version of the Darwin\'s Z-axis. You can put it on 3 threaded rods instead of four to reduce the risk of over constraining the build platform (that you have with four). This is for the same reason why a tripod is always stable, but a four legged table will wobble on un-even surfaces unless the legs are adjusted.</p><p>I\'m hoping that the Z-axis will run more smoothly (less resistance from running it through the M8 nuts and less inertia (1 rod less). You need two of these parts and two skate bearings to fit inside it.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Wed, 16 Dec 2009 09:04:01 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1441</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3826" length="5974" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>BfB spindle holder</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1420</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1420"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/0d/81/9f/e6/30/IMG_1964_BfB_spindle_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a printed spindle holder. It\'s more than strong enough and still uses only a little plastic filament. It\'s designed to accommodate the Bits From Bytes filament spindles. It\'s not the cheapest source, but it\'s really nice for various accents. Also, if you print toys, using colour really gives it the toy feeling :)</p><p>The one with the blue filament is my last iteration. It works really well. Also, there is little friction so skate bearings are definitely overkill for this application (which are used in my other spindle holder and the excellent derivatives by others)</p><p>Tip: just the A part will also work, especially when its a bit oversized it will be a bit convex. You can then put the spindle on its side and it will revolve like a carousel. It's slightly less reliable but much, much simpler.</p><p><b><big>Related blog post:</big> Accessories evolution: Spindle holders!</b><br><a rel="ugc nofollow" href="http://blog.erikdebruijn.nl/archives/123-Accessories-evolution-Spindle-holders!.html">http://blog.erikdebruijn.nl/archives/123-Accessories-evolution-Spindle-holders!.html</a></p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:30:53 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1420</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3737" length="4504" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>Bearing bracket for Z-posts</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1404</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1404"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d1/91/b3/5c/31/IMG_1958_bearing_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a RepRap part for the Darwin design that I couldn't find, so I designed one. It will allow you to use common 608 skate bearings. This obsoletes the Z-Studding tie bracket, which require more material than this object, but needs no bearing (does need an M5 bolt and two nuts).</p><p>For other bearings, simply adjust "bearing_OD" and export the model with OpenSCAD.</p><p>The parametric model also includes a corner bracket based on accurate measurements of the STL file. This might be useful to someone! You can see it when you uncomment the following line:</p><pre>//translate([-8.8,-8.8,-32-3]) corner_bracket();</pre><p>If your Z-platform is not completely accurate, the slotted holes allow you to adjust the precise location of the bearings so that the platform exerts no force perpendicular to the threaded rod, just that it puts a static force on it because of its weight. This is very important to prevent a wobble which you could see across the vertical surfaces of all your prints.</p><p>Because you need 7 of these, or at least 3 of these at the bottom, I tried to minimize the material needed. Of course it can be further reduced, but I didn't want to push it before trying it first.</p><p>At 0.2 fill, the volume extruded is 4.8 cc and takes 25 minutes. At 0.45 fill (more than needed) it's 5.2 cc.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Tue, 08 Dec 2009 12:17:22 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1404</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3669" length="3812" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> <item> <title>90 degree angle rod connector</title> <link>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1399</link> <description><![CDATA[<div style="margin: 5px;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1399"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/f2/79/df/ae/2b/tie-bracket-8-8_chamfered_display_large_preview_large.jpg" class="preview_large" style="width: 240px; height: 180px"></a><br/></div><div><div><p>This is a pretty generic part that allows you to connects two shafts/rods perpendicular to each other! The 8-8mm version is used in the RepRap for the diagonal tie brackets, to connect the 8mm threaded rod to the 8mm diameter studs.</p><p>You can specify the diameters of each of the holes.</p><p>In version two you have more control over the sizes of the exterior of the shafts. One of the shafts needs more material, because in the Z-direction the part will be weaker. Shaft 2 can be very thin, configure this with a higher negative value of \"shaft_2_exterior_difference\".</p><p><b>Note:</b> It requires my teardrop.scad module to be present in the same directory, but you can uncomment my module at the bottom of the script.</p><p><b>Tip for RepRap Darwin users: </b> I designed this part to have thinner rods as diagonals. This reduces the weight of your machine. M3 rods are more than strong enough! This will save the weight difference for each of the 10 diagonal rods! You can probably save about 1 kg.</p></div></div>]]></description> <author>Erik</author> <pubDate>Mon, 07 Dec 2009 09:14:35 +0100</pubDate> <guid>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1399</guid> <enclosure url="https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3653" length="2997" type="application/octet-stream"/> </item> </channel></rss> 
