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<dc:creator>PCali</dc:creator>
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<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">OK.. this is more to ...
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It has been so long I actually could not remember, getting old I guess.<img ...
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<channel>
<title>RSS Feed Forum</title>
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<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 05:28:55 +0000</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>"Best" Manual lathe "ever" made?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 05:18:58 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/best-manual-lathe-ever-made.78234/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">78234</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (PCali)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general-archive.9/"><![CDATA[General - Archive]]></category>
<dc:creator>PCali</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">OK.. this is more to spark discussion than anything else...<br />
<br />
After reading the thread about Hardinge still making HLV's it got me to wondering...<br />
<br />
In the non-CNC, "under about 15" swing and about 40" between centers" class...<br />
What, in your opinion, was or is the "best" lathe ever made?<br />
"best" being somewhat subjective, of course, but encompassing accuracy, finish, fit, and any particularly good ergonimic features that makes it a pleasure to use.<br />
<br />
Again this is mostly becuase I'm interested...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/best-manual-lathe-ever-made.78234/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>60</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>anyone have any experience with "C foam" on a wire EDM?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:59:45 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/anyone-have-any-experience-with-c-foam-on-a-wire-edm.425735/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425735</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (AMCmatt)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/edm-machining.17/"><![CDATA[EDM Machining]]></category>
<dc:creator>AMCmatt</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I have an R&D project for a customer and they are using a product called "C foam". It is basically graphite foam. It looks like a piece of foam, its full of porosity but it is rigid. It isn't hard, its easily machined with basically diamond burrs. I can touch it with a file and it just disintegrates. It is mostly used for fixturing large items since it is stable and all that jazz. My thought was since I don't really want to have any of that dust in my machines, I could EDM it. It is...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/anyone-have-any-experience-with-c-foam-on-a-wire-edm.425735/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>20</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>What is the key to finding a replacement key for a Yakawi 3 mm drill chuck?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:53:28 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/what-is-the-key-to-finding-a-replacement-key-for-a-yakawi-3-mm-drill-chuck.425910/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425910</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (holtzapffelFan)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>holtzapffelFan</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I used a 1/8" brass rod and a pair of pliers to tighten and loosen my tiny chuck, which works, but eventually I will scratch the chuck with my pliers, and I really need to replace my drill bit. What do I count to figure out which key to chase? I contacted Yakiwa - Seiko Usa on March 21, 2024 and have not received an answer if I can purchase a replacement chuck key from them. It is at work, I can post a photo and measurements if necessary tomorrow.</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Remington Arms Auction, Ilion, New York</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:49:28 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/remington-arms-auction-ilion-new-york.425741/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425741</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Joe Michaels)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/antique-machinery-and-history.19/"><![CDATA[Antique Machinery and History]]></category>
<dc:creator>Joe Michaels</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">There is an online auction in progress to liquidate all the machine tools & equipment at the Remington Arms plant. The plant closed a few years back due, in part to to political machinations of NYS wanting to force arms manufacturers out of NY State. I believe ultimately, the original Remington Arms Company went bankrupt and the name was taken over by some other owners. u. In an economically depressed area of NY State where industry once thrived, Remington Arms was one of the last large...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/remington-arms-auction-ilion-new-york.425741/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>28</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>StanF South Bend 9A Rebuild Thread</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:44:27 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/stanf-south-bend-9a-rebuild-thread.424057/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">424057</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (StanF)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/south-bend-lathes.25/"><![CDATA[South Bend Lathes]]></category>
<dc:creator>StanF</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Edit: I decided to turn this into a regular rebuild thread, since that's where I'm heading.<br />
<br />
This will replace an imported 9x20 lathe that I've owned for several years. The big draw of this lathe was the included taper attachment, which is complete, but not shown in the pictures below. I am also very happy to get power cross feed in the 9A - a feature missing from the 9x20 import. <br />
<br />
South Bend 9A built in 1945:<br />
<a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/img_5707-small-jpg.430767/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/371/371785-a7f8f0d61d01b6f3c002179af5f1263d.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="IMG_5707 (Small).jpg"
title="IMG_5707 (Small).jpg"
width="202" height="151" loading="lazy" /></a><br />
It came with an Aloris knock off toolpost, but I had to fit it...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/stanf-south-bend-9a-rebuild-thread.424057/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>59</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Ot...ship hits bridge</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:42:53 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ot-ship-hits-bridge.425779/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425779</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (plastikdreams)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>plastikdreams</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">So evidently a ship hit the Frances Scott key Bridge in Baltimore around 0130...knocked the whole thing down...oops</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>138</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>OT: What about the Chevrolet 2023 EUV? Do you own one?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:38:44 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ot-what-about-the-chevrolet-2023-euv-do-you-own-one.417591/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">417591</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (rons)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>rons</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">A dealership nearby has a entire fleet of these. Majority are in the price range $29,000 - $32,000.<br />
A few are up to $6000 more because of sound systems and metallic paint job, leather seats, etc.<br />
The mileage between charges is 249 miles.<br />
There is a $1000 rebate off MSRP at this moment. Can't wait.<br />
Does Chevrolet EUV and Tesla compare?<br />
<br />
In CA. the democrats want to do away with gas vehicles yesterday.</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>107</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>SVM 5100L Spindle Acceleration</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:27:44 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/svm-5100l-spindle-acceleration.425907/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425907</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Holke F11V)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/doosan-and-daewoo.97/"><![CDATA[Doosan and Daewoo]]></category>
<dc:creator>Holke F11V</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hi all,<br />
<br />
I just finished having an SVM 5100L installed in our small shop and I am having some issues with power. To preface, I plan on upgrading my rpc (american rotary ADX 25) very shortly but wanted to see if it would run this machine on by itself. I have the rotary going into a 3 phase transformer, dropping voltage to ~210 and then to a load center. The current draw if very minimal on everything except the spindle ramp. I am seeing a 75 amp spike when starting the spindle from 0-6500...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/svm-5100l-spindle-acceleration.425907/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Hobby Lathe Question</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:27:29 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/hobby-lathe-question.424501/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">424501</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Plastic Modeler)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>Plastic Modeler</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I have a Dremel Moto-Lathe Model 700 that I'm trying to modify. The unit was made to turn small diameter wood dowels and I want to mount a 3 jaw chuck from an electric drill on the drive spindle. The mounts that came with the lathe are spur and faceplate centers.<br />
The drive is a 3/8-24 thread while the chuck input thread is 5/16-24. I was able to find a threaded adapter and install the chuck onto the motor drive (so there are 3 parts to the assembly).<br />
However, the chuck does not turn true. I...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/hobby-lathe-question.424501/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>15</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Thompson Grinder and Antique Hydraulic Seals</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:18:57 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/thompson-grinder-and-antique-hydraulic-seals.425909/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425909</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Tonk)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/abrasive-machining.44/"><![CDATA[Abrasive Machining]]></category>
<dc:creator>Tonk</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I'm working on a Thompson Grinder Model "F". This model of grinder was made from the early 50's to the early 70's. I think this is an early one. It developed vibration in the table feed so I took the hydraulic table pistons apart. Some of the seals were broken or missing.<br />
<br />
The pistons have u-shaped vented metal shields. I have not been able to find any information about these or find anything like them. Anyone know anything about this style of seals? <br />
<br />
If I can't find them I think my...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/thompson-grinder-and-antique-hydraulic-seals.425909/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Questions about soft face hammer tip colors, hardnesses, uses</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 04:06:27 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/questions-about-soft-face-hammer-tip-colors-hardnesses-uses.425886/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425886</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (VanishingStyleofMind)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>VanishingStyleofMind</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hi there, <br />
<br />
I used to work in an electric motor repair shop and did some basic lathe work and often used Garland split head rawhide hammers to prevent work marring. I am rebuilding my personal tool collection and am interested in Nupla or Lixie soft-head hammers to substitute those. What colors/hardnesses do you guys use to hammer which materials? Going by the information in the catalog, the green tip is especially confusing, since it is listed as "tough." I don't understand where "tough"...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/questions-about-soft-face-hammer-tip-colors-hardnesses-uses.425886/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>looking for trouble</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 03:51:10 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/looking-for-trouble.425898/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425898</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (stupid)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/cnc-machining.21/"><![CDATA[CNC Machining]]></category>
<dc:creator>stupid</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hello, im looking for cheap machines<br />
<br />
Here are a few i am looking at, let me know your thoughts. <br />
i will be looking to make cranks, cams, rods, molds and various other odds and ends. <br />
<br />
Thank you for your insight.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/img_4104-png.434494/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/375/375512-a92f813572e3347146c2570afabb91a8.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="IMG_4104.png"
title="IMG_4104.png"
width="151" height="328" loading="lazy" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/img_4103-png.434495/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/375/375513-2b9a1623288d4140a851c2ccd2881764.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="IMG_4103.png"
title="IMG_4103.png"
width="151" height="328" loading="lazy" /></a><a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/img_4101-png.434497/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/375/375515-98c11501c86d6631893ee7818981dba3.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="IMG_4101.png"
title="IMG_4101.png"
width="151" height="328" loading="lazy" /></a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>25</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Charles North Tx Shop build</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 03:37:35 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/charles-north-tx-shop-build.423307/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">423307</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (CDR243)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/member-and-shop-photos.22/"><![CDATA[Member and Shop Photos]]></category>
<dc:creator>CDR243</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hey All, <br />
<br />
After a bit of a delay, I have finally started my shop. The plan is 75x65 with a 25' covered lean-to. The doors going in are a 25x15 hanger door and two 12x12 rollups. Should look something like this when complete. <a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/img_8319-jpg.428407/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/369/369425-63572aa8ba613b3be5612b976833800b.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="IMG_8319.jpg"
title="IMG_8319.jpg"
width="202" height="151" loading="lazy" /></a><br />
<br />
Concrete went down in December. 5000 psi slab 6" with 2'x 2' footings around the perimeter and between the columns. Each column has a 4'X4' pier below it. <a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/img_8298-jpg.428406/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/369/369424-e719b860bc94ebf554611a387d1871b0.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="IMG_8298.jpg"
title="IMG_8298.jpg"
width="202" height="151" loading="lazy" /></a>The floor is stained; the first application went poorly as the solution froze...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/charles-north-tx-shop-build.423307/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>46</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>1 1/2 inch per foot taper reamer</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 03:34:19 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/1-1-2-inch-per-foot-taper-reamer.425899/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425899</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (ronf)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>ronf</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I need a large tapered reamer for an oversized hole in a pump jack arm, the wrist pin hole, I don't have the arm yet but looked like I would need to be over 2 1/2 inches on the large end and at least 6 inches long. the next question is Tree the only taper boring head and would it do a taper 4 1/2 inches long or are there other manufacturers of taper boring heads.</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Advice on annular cutter for 3" hole please</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 03:16:45 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/advice-on-annular-cutter-for-3-hole-please.425805/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425805</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Randalthor)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>Randalthor</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I have a job coming up which, among other things, involves cutting a 3.250" hole in a 3/4" plate of 1018. I plan to cut the hole on a Bridgeport using an annular cutter. I have an R8 to 3/4" weldon adapter for it. But I'm not sure which cutter to buy, since I don't have anything near a 3" size hole cutter. I plan to finish the hole with a boring bar.<br />
<br />
I can get a 3" X 3" Hougen copperhead carbide tipped cutter for a couple hundred bucks. Or I can get a Hougen 3" X 3" HSS cutter for...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/advice-on-annular-cutter-for-3-hole-please.425805/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>58</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Looking at a Tree 2UVR</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 03:16:33 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/looking-at-a-tree-2uvr.425881/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425881</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Duane Kaufman)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>Duane Kaufman</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Dear Sirs,<br />
<br />
Full disclosure: I have not operated a Tree knee mill before (though I have used many different knee mills and benchtop mills in the past).<br />
I am going to look at a Tree 2UVR mill today that is for sale near me:<br />
<div class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--unfurl js-unfurl fauxBlockLink"
data-unfurl="true" data-result-id="34016" data-url="https://hgrinc.com/productDetail/Machine-Tools/Used-Tree-Vertical-Mill/07231310035/" data-host="hgrinc.com" data-pending="false">
<div class="contentRow">
<div class="contentRow-figure contentRow-figure--fixedSmall js-unfurl-figure">
<img src="https://image.hgrinc.com/inventory/0723/0723131/20230727094617867_L.JPG" alt="hgrinc.com" data-onerror="hide-parent"/>
</div>
<div class="contentRow-main">
<h3 class="contentRow-header js-unfurl-title">
<a href="https://hgrinc.com/productDetail/Machine-Tools/Used-Tree-Vertical-Mill/07231310035/"
class="link link--external fauxBlockLink-blockLink"
target="_blank"
rel="nofollow ugc noopener"
data-proxy-href="">
Used 2UVR Tree Vertical Mill For Sale
</a>
</h3>
<div class="contentRow-snippet js-unfurl-desc">Used Tree Vertical Mill For Sale</div>
<div class="contentRow-minor contentRow-minor--hideLinks">
<span class="js-unfurl-favicon">
<img src="https://image.hgrinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/favicon.png" alt="hgrinc.com" class="bbCodeBlockUnfurl-icon"
data-onerror="hide-parent"/>
</span>
hgrinc.com
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br />
The mill is not under power.<br />
What are the easy things to look for, or stay away from?<br />
<br />
Appreciate your suggestions!<br />
Sincerely,<br />
Duane Kaufman</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Looking for 4020 VMC recomendation that I can make fit a 84" door</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 03:06:07 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/looking-for-4020-vmc-recomendation-that-i-can-make-fit-a-84-door.425908/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425908</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Roger-Dee)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/cnc-machining.21/"><![CDATA[CNC Machining]]></category>
<dc:creator>Roger-Dee</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hi guys! I started this thread earlier but it got deleted for some reason that I was not given so here I am again.<br />
<br />
I have a 1998 Eagle Yang SMV1000 40x20x20 in my home based shop that I want to replace with a newer machine, preferably new. From what I've seen most newer machine are getting really high and meant to go through a 8' door minimum. I was able to get my mill in my shop by removing the Z axis motor and unscrewing the Z ball screw enough to clear. I don't mind doing this kind of...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/looking-for-4020-vmc-recomendation-that-i-can-make-fit-a-84-door.425908/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Boss bought B&S CMM Without TESA Reflex Control. Massive Paperweight?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:57:51 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/boss-bought-b-s-cmm-without-tesa-reflex-control-massive-paperweight.425857/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425857</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Joshodude)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/metrology.45/"><![CDATA[Metrology]]></category>
<dc:creator>Joshodude</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">My boss got this Brown & Sharpe Micro-hite 3D at an auction while back and it's been sitting collecting dust. Figured I'd check out what we need to get it running. A few Google searches later and it looks like we only have the moving parts of the machine. The images I saw make me believe we don't even have everything we need. We don't have that black cabinet with drawer that is usually associated with these CMMs. We don't have the TESA Relfex panel.<br />
<br />
Is this just a massive paperweight taking...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/boss-bought-b-s-cmm-without-tesa-reflex-control-massive-paperweight.425857/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Hendey 14x5, Serial #25247</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:53:18 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/hendey-14x5-serial-25247.425874/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425874</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (JasonMorich)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/antique-machinery-and-history.19/"><![CDATA[Antique Machinery and History]]></category>
<dc:creator>JasonMorich</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hello, I am new to the forum and recently purchased this Hendey 14x5, serial #25247. I am looking for any information I can find on the history of this lathe, and have some questions about the rear spindle bearing. After I got the lathe home, I noticed a crack around the edge of the rear spindle bearing. Based on the diagrams of the headstock that I have been able to find, it appears that this part of the bearing is a thin lip to catch oil and not part of the actual bearing surface. Is there...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/hendey-14x5-serial-25247.425874/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Walker Turner 20" Drill Press Rehabilitation Journey</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:44:07 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/walker-turner-20-drill-press-rehabilitation-journey.425719/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425719</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Rick_B)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/antique-machinery-and-history.19/"><![CDATA[Antique Machinery and History]]></category>
<dc:creator>Rick_B</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">So I recently started this project and thought I'd invite you along. I am positive there will lots of problems/issues that you can help with. This all started when I saw a Ebay posting for the machine - it looked like a basket case - just my style. It was located in WV - about 5 hours from me and the only transport I had was a RAV4. I considered ren ting a truck or getting a tow hitch and trailer but in the end decided the press would fit - especially if disassembled. The machine weighs...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/walker-turner-20-drill-press-rehabilitation-journey.425719/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>36</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Monarch 10ee sight glass installation</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:39:10 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/monarch-10ee-sight-glass-installation.425803/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425803</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (murphatthepoint)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/monarch-lathes.10/"><![CDATA[Monarch Lathes]]></category>
<dc:creator>murphatthepoint</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Question: unfortunately I can’t remember the sequence of installing the sight glass into the bezel. Does the glass go into the bezel first and then the small cork(or rubber) gasket or vise versa?<br />
The second photo shows the back of the bezel with the glass first and then the cork<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Jim Murphy</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Boring Head Pullout</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:37:18 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/boring-head-pullout.425890/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425890</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Painkeeper)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/cnc-machining.21/"><![CDATA[CNC Machining]]></category>
<dc:creator>Painkeeper</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I have very little experience using a boring head in a CNC mill. I have always wondered: If boring down for the finish cut with the intention of holding a close tolerance and getting the best finish possible, is it common practice to feed back out at the same diameter? Will doing so not cut additional material and/or compromise the finish? What do people typically do?</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Cast Iron Plate</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:27:51 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/cast-iron-plate.425848/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425848</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (AHS)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>AHS</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I have a 18 x 30 cast iron plate that is probably 50 y/o. It has seen very little use and hibernated on a bench covered by a sturdy wood cover for at least the last 30 years. For the last 20 years it wore a grease layer covered by plastic, which held up well so no rust. Pics below<br />
<br />
No measurements taken of the surface, and no grade on the label. After cleaning, the few tiny dings on the surface quickly disappeared with light stoning. There is a surface blemish from some chemical on one end...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/cast-iron-plate.425848/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Chucks made in Poland - Bison and TMX?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:23:59 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/chucks-made-in-poland-bison-and-tmx.425893/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425893</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Crowne)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>Crowne</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I'm tooling up a new 16x40 lathe with a D1-6 spindle nose, 2-1/2" bore.<br />
For my needs, I am looking to purchase an adjustable ("set-tru") 3-jaw chuck and a 5C collet chuck, also set-tru.<br />
I've been getting by with an 8" chuck on my old 14x40, but I figure a 10" 3-jaw will serve me better on this larger lathe.<br />
<br />
I'm looking for new and good quality, but without breaking the bank on something like a Rohm.<br />
<br />
My leading contenders right now are chucks from Bison and TMX. Both made in Poland from...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/chucks-made-in-poland-bison-and-tmx.425893/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Fadal tapping speed .1 or .2 ?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:23:12 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/fadal-tapping-speed-1-or-2.401077/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">401077</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (camhead420)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/fadal.93/"><![CDATA[Fadal]]></category>
<dc:creator>camhead420</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hello to all,<br />
<br />
I had the subject come up of why I use S200.2 for tapping instead of S200.1.<br />
It has been so long I actually could not remember, getting old I guess.<img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/pmsmilies/codger.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":codger:" title="Codger :codger:" data-shortname=":codger:" /><br />
What is everyone doing out there?<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>22</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Fadal 914-15 Disassembly</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:21:21 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/fadal-914-15-disassembly.425801/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425801</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (ajb0708)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/fadal.93/"><![CDATA[Fadal]]></category>
<dc:creator>ajb0708</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Does anyone have experience disassembling a Fadal 914-15 (1996), or a similar older machine? We're trying to avoid cutting a doorway to move it out. Does anyone have any insight into how hard or easy these machines are to break down and re assemble?</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Ingersoll Rand 2545 (t30) low output cfm</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:07:17 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ingersoll-rand-2545-t30-low-output-cfm.395755/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">395755</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (tomjelly)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>tomjelly</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">early 2000's T30 compressor that came with a bunch of stuff I bought is not performing. It takes way too long to get up to it's 170 psi cutoff and can't keep up with even minor demand. This one has a hydraulic or "suction" unloader that seems to be doing what it should. There is a port fitting like for a copper compression fitting on the low pressure head that has nothing connected (and nowhere has a place for a line from there to attach to), maybe that's supposed to be pressurized to...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ingersoll-rand-2545-t30-low-output-cfm.395755/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>13</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Reversing Contactors Wiring Diagram</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:03:23 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/reversing-contactors-wiring-diagram.425536/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425536</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (rimcanyon)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/transformers-phase-converters-and-vfd.11/"><![CDATA[Transformers, Phase Converters and VFD]]></category>
<dc:creator>rimcanyon</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Looking for a wiring diagram for a pair of contactors to support instant motor reverse (i.e. you don't have to press stop first). The diagrams I found from Siemens and Cutler Hammer were for a single reversing contactor, not a pair. This is for a drill press with a three phase motor.<br />
<br />
The drill press is currently setup with a pair of 3TB4112 contactors, one of which is bad. The machine is wired with a 220->110 3 phase transfomer, so the coils are 110V, which also supplies the light. The...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/reversing-contactors-wiring-diagram.425536/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>13</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Forklift g/impact meters</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 02:02:40 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/forklift-g-impact-meters.425713/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425713</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (ratbldr427)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/material-handling-and-rigging.85/"><![CDATA[Material Handling and Rigging]]></category>
<dc:creator>ratbldr427</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">This may be old hat may have been around forever. We have installed G-meters on all our lifts including stand ups. I think they are set for 5G's. When one triggers the lift stops and the operator has to get maintenance or a supervisor to unlock it. A report has to be written also.<br />
Not needed in a small shop but in our plant over the years the damage from lifts is costly but until now it has always been a" who done it?" We installed security cameras through out about 8 years ago and that...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/forklift-g-impact-meters.425713/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>FormLabs vs Raise3d</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 01:41:45 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/formlabs-vs-raise3d.425906/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425906</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (tdubi708)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing.81/"><![CDATA[Additive Manufacturing/3D Printing]]></category>
<dc:creator>tdubi708</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">So I started a 3D printing and design company. I have an opportunity to start doing some work in the dental world and I’m looking for a resin printer. <br />
<br />
I’m in between formlabs and raise3d<br />
<br />
Anyone have any opinions on either? <br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Anybody make a small bevel protractor?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 01:12:06 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/anybody-make-a-small-bevel-protractor.425844/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425844</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Pressingonward)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/metrology.45/"><![CDATA[Metrology]]></category>
<dc:creator>Pressingonward</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I'm an engineer and I frequently need to measure angles on small parts - often injection molded parts with clearance issues.<br />
<br />
I know angle blocks are one solution, but I'd like to have a protractor as well. I've used a bevel protractor before and I like the tool, but I wish it was available in a 3" size instead of the common 6/7" size (like a Starrett 359). <br />
<br />
Does anyone make a small bevel protractor? Vintage would be fine, doesn't need to be new (prefer quality vintage to new import...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/anybody-make-a-small-bevel-protractor.425844/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Lifting Eye bolt. Made in USA, Japan or W. Europe</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 01:05:25 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/lifting-eye-bolt-made-in-usa-japan-or-w-europe.425904/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425904</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Spud)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/material-handling-and-rigging.85/"><![CDATA[Material Handling and Rigging]]></category>
<dc:creator>Spud</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Looking for a forged Lifting Eye bolt, with shoulder. <br />
<br />
Internal Dia = 30 mm<br />
Metric: M12 x 1.75 (thread pitch)<br />
<br />
Looking for Made in USA, Germany (or anywhere in W. Europe), Japan<br />
<br />
This company - Mädler North America - is German, and has the eye bolt with my specs, but no country of Origin mentioned on bolts. Will call them tomorrow...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/lifting-eye-bolt-made-in-usa-japan-or-w-europe.425904/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Interesting Sander</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:42:51 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/interesting-sander.425853/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425853</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Allegheny)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/antique-machinery-and-history.19/"><![CDATA[Antique Machinery and History]]></category>
<dc:creator>Allegheny</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Anyone ever seen something like this before? Clearly cobbled together. Got it from what appears to be an eastern European website (Cyrillic lettering). I could see knife makers drooling all over this:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://practicalmachinist.com/forum/attachments/1711561694053-jpeg.434336/"
target="_blank"><img src="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/data/attachments/375/375354-fa860ab7051f35b3183b3999f4a803bd.jpg"
class="bbImage "
style=""
alt="1711561694053.jpeg"
title="1711561694053.jpeg"
width="151" height="269" loading="lazy" /></a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>What are smaller job shops doing for job routers/travelers?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:18:50 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/what-are-smaller-job-shops-doing-for-job-routers-travelers.410619/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">410619</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (scrapNcrash)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/shop-management-and-owner-issues.49/"><![CDATA[Shop Management and Owner Issues]]></category>
<dc:creator>scrapNcrash</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I am a small shop owner doing job shop work and production runs. We run into the problem of remembering how we ran jobs because each operations will have a separate programming file. It’s a pain to click through each programming file to remember how we ran a job and we’d like to have one router to quickly tell us how we ran it. Also, I am growing my shop so our team is expected to go to 10 people. Right now, I’m having to chase down every order in the shop and instruct the employee what’s...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/what-are-smaller-job-shops-doing-for-job-routers-travelers.410619/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>16</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Max table load for Hauser 2BA jig borer?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:13:51 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/max-table-load-for-hauser-2ba-jig-borer.425905/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425905</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Spud)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/deckel-maho-aciera-abene-mills.14/"><![CDATA[Deckel, Maho, Aciera, Abene Mills]]></category>
<dc:creator>Spud</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hauser 2ba Jig Borer.<br />
No idea on when it was manufactured.<br />
<br />
Trying to find out the max table load capacity. I have a Hauser rotary table from a larger Hauser jig borer (Model: OP3) ; and want to know if it would be too heavy for the Model 2ba. I think it would be fine but just want to make sure, because the rotary is going to sit on the machine undisturbed for a year or more.<br />
<br />
Machine is exactly like below one. Looking for an English manual like below...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/max-table-load-for-hauser-2ba-jig-borer.425905/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
</item>
<item>
<title>Help chatter while machining a shaft (CNC lathe).</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:13:22 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/help-chatter-while-machining-a-shaft-cnc-lathe.425834/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425834</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (1NoobMachinist1)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/cnc-machining.21/"><![CDATA[CNC Machining]]></category>
<dc:creator>1NoobMachinist1</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Hi everyone as the title says, currently I am faced with a challenge and I am not sure how to remedy it. I am currently experiencing some chatter while machining EN24T 110mm diameter shaft that's 660mm long. it us chucked into a hydraulic chuck with cut soft jaws to fit with a tailstock and rotating center. I am using a kyocera DNMG insert with a 0.4mm (CA525) radius I've attempted to use the recommended values after doing the calcs (RPM @ 478, F120, 1mm DOC (2mm overall)) here's the part...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/help-chatter-while-machining-a-shaft-cnc-lathe.425834/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>30</slash:comments>
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<title>WTB: Horizontal Bandsaw</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:09:37 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/wtb-horizontal-bandsaw.425863/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425863</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (DanASM)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/machinery-for-sale-or-wanted.12/"><![CDATA[Machinery for Sale or Wanted]]></category>
<dc:creator>DanASM</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">My old man has a job that needs to be saw cut to length and was quoted $600 for material and another $600 for the saw cutting. He was thinking of getting a bandsaw for $5-$600 and doing it ourselves. <br />
<br />
If anyone has one they want to get rid of let me know. I would rather not get a Harbor Freight or a JET. Something that fits the budget that is not in bad shape.</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>15</slash:comments>
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<item>
<title>Reproduction Miller Syncrowave 250DX Tig Welder Pulser and Sequencer Boards.</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:08:29 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/reproduction-miller-syncrowave-250dx-tig-welder-pulser-and-sequencer-boards.425751/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425751</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (Contract_Pilot)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-plasma-welding.30/"><![CDATA[Fabrication: CNC Laser, Waterjet, Plasma, Welding ]]></category>
<dc:creator>Contract_Pilot</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Since I own a Miller 250DX After seeing the sticker shock of factory miller boards. I decided to make some Reproduction Pulser and Sequencer Boards. I Did not think it would take off like it did!<br />
<br />
First One Was For the More Modern Slant Face Units I went thru a Few Revisions fine Tuning it.<br />
Blog Post. <a href="https://www.stevenrhine.com/?p=131392" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">https://www.stevenrhine.com/?p=131392</a><br />
<img src="https://www.stevenrhine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/Replacement-For-Miller-300547-and-300548-Top-scaled.jpg" data-url="https://www.stevenrhine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/Replacement-For-Miller-300547-and-300548-Top-scaled.jpg" class="bbImage " loading="lazy"
style="width: 559px" width="" height="" /><br />
Since I had a lot of request for...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/reproduction-miller-syncrowave-250dx-tig-welder-pulser-and-sequencer-boards.425751/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
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<title>American rotary ADX-60 high amperage on idle?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:05:38 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/american-rotary-adx-60-high-amperage-on-idle.406636/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">406636</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (idontrunntoofast)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/transformers-phase-converters-and-vfd.11/"><![CDATA[Transformers, Phase Converters and VFD]]></category>
<dc:creator>idontrunntoofast</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">I just installed a brand new ADX-60 rotary phase converter in my new shop.<br />
The documentation for the ADX-60 claims that idle amperage draw should be approx 7.45A.<br />
My clamp meter is showing a 36 amp draw on idle. No loads hooked up.<br />
Now all wiring is per the manual and correct according to American Rotary, all wire sizing exceeds requirements in installation guide and NEC requirements.<br />
When talking to American Rotary I was just told that it is normal and to just run it.<br />
I would like help...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/american-rotary-adx-60-high-amperage-on-idle.406636/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Read more</a></div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>48</slash:comments>
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<title>New Trav-a-dial ?</title>
<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:03:15 +0000</pubDate>
<link>https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/new-trav-a-dial.425875/</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false">425875</guid>
<author>invalid@example.com (animal12)</author>
<category domain="https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/general.38/"><![CDATA[General]]></category>
<dc:creator>animal12</dc:creator>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="bbWrapper">Anyone else seen this ? I just got it in a email on one of the io groups I'm in . Their pretty vague about it .<br />
<div class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--unfurl js-unfurl fauxBlockLink"
data-unfurl="true" data-result-id="34002" data-url="https://trav-a-dial.com/product/newgen-trav-a-dial/" data-host="trav-a-dial.com" data-pending="false">
<div class="contentRow">
<div class="contentRow-main">
<h3 class="contentRow-header js-unfurl-title">
<a href="https://trav-a-dial.com/product/newgen-trav-a-dial/"
class="link link--external fauxBlockLink-blockLink"
target="_blank"
rel="nofollow ugc noopener"
data-proxy-href="">
NewGen Trav-A-Dial – Trav-A-Dial
</a>
</h3>
<div class="contentRow-snippet js-unfurl-desc"></div>
<div class="contentRow-minor contentRow-minor--hideLinks">
<span class="js-unfurl-favicon">
<img src="https://trav-a-dial.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/cropped-cropped-Trav-a-dial-Image-Logo-e1676001264371-32x32.png" alt="trav-a-dial.com" class="bbCodeBlockUnfurl-icon"
data-onerror="hide-parent"/>
</span>
trav-a-dial.com
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
animal</div>]]></content:encoded>
<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
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